Variation of Caramel
From: Le Bernardin Cookbook by Eric Ripert and Maguy Le Coze
(Broadway Books; September 1998; ISBN:0385488416; HC)
Cookbook Heaven @ Recipelink.com

Eric: Gilbert invented this dessert in a fit of inspiration. It became a signature dish, and for years it was the most spectacular and successful dessert on the menu.
Maguy: When Ruth Reichl gave us a four-star review in 1995, she said it was time to retire the Variation of Caramel from the menu. I couldn't agree with her more, plus, its a pain in the neck to make, as you can see. My suggestion is, don't do it.

Makes 6 servings

• THE CARAMEL ANGLAISE:
• 8 egg yolks
• 1 1/2 cups sugar
• 3 1/2 cups half and half
• THE CREME CARAMEL:
• 1 cup sugar
• 1/4 cup water
• 1 cup whole milk
• 2 eggs
• THE CARAMEL MOUSSE:
• 1 cup sugar
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• THE COOKIE SHELLS:
• 4 egg whites
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted but not hot
• Nonstick cooking spray
• THE SNOW EGGS:
• 4 egg whites, at room temperature
• 1/4 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 cup sugar
• THE DECORATION:
• 1 cup sugar
• 1/4 cup water
• SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
• Six 5-ounce ramekins
• 2 round cups or glasses, 1 about 2 inches in diameter and 1 slightly larger, for shaping cookies
• Electric mixer
• Oval ice cream scoop
• Ice cream freezer
• Pastry brush
• Rolling pin
• Round ice cream scoop
• Pastry bag fitted with a plain 3/8-inch tip

1. For the caramel anglaise, place the egg yolks in
   a large bowl and whisk in 1/4 cup of sugar. Set aside. Place the remaining sugar in a large, nonaluminum saucepan over high heat. Stir constantly with a whisk until the sugar is melted and turns amber color. Remove from the heat and carefully add the half and half (it will bubble up). Return the mixture to the heat and whisk until smooth.
2. When the sugar mixture is very hot but not simmering, whisk a quarter of it into the yolks. Bring the caramel mixture to a boil and whisk all of it into the yolk mixture. Pour the anglaise mixture back into the pan. Put the pan over low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the foam on top disappears and the anglaise is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes (do not let it come to a simmer).
3. Strain the anglaise through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Place the bowl over another bowl filled with ice, and stir often until chilled. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
4. For the creme caramel, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Place 3/4 cup of sugar in a small saucepan over high heat. Stir constantly until the sugar is melted and turns light amber color. Remove it from the heat and carefully stir in the water. Return the mixture to the heat and boil until the caramel has a light syrup consistency, about 2 minutes. Pour enough caramel into the ramekins just to coat the bottoms; discard any extra. Set the ramekins aside.
5. Place the milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk the eggs and the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar in a mixing bowl. When the milk is hot but not simmering, whisk about a third of it into the egg mixture. Return the milk to the heat and bring it to a boil. Whisk it into the egg mixture and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Skim off the foam. Pour the custard into the ramekins. Set the ramekins in a small roasting pan, place the pan on the oven rack, and pour enough hot water into the pan to come three quarters of the way up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the custards are just set, about 30 minutes, turning the pan around once. Remove the ramekins from the water, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
6. For the mousse, place the sugar in a medium saucepan over high heat. Stir constantly until the sugar is melted and turns amber color. Remove it from
   the heat and carefully stir in the heavy cream. Return the mixture to the heat and whisk until the caramel is melted and smooth. Remove it from the heat and whisk in the butter. Strain the mousse through a fine-mesh sieve. Cover and refrigerate it overnight.
7. For the cookie shells, whisk the egg whites and sugar together in a mixing bowl. Whisk in the flour a third at a time. Gradually whisk in the butter. Cover the batter and refrigerate it overnight.
8. A few hours before serving, bake the cookies: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Coat a baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray. Drop a slightly rounded teaspoon of batter on the baking sheet and spread it with the back of the spoon into a 3 1/4-inch circle. Repeat, fitting as many circles as possible on the pan, 1 inch apart. Bake until the cookies are mostly browned, with some light spots, about 3 minutes.
9. Immediately lift a cookie off of the pan with a spatula, lay it over the bottom of the 2-inch cup and use the larger one to gently press the cookie around the bottom of the cup. As soon as the cookie is firm enough to hold its shape, set it aside and repeat with the remaining cookies. Repeat with the remaining batter; you only need 12 cookies, but it is better to make extra in case any break.
10. For the snow eggs, combine the egg whites, lemon juice, and half the sugar
    in a mixing bowl and whip the mixture with an electric mixer on medium speed until thickened. Raise the speed to high and whip until the meringue is very thick and fluffy. Whip in the remaining sugar.
11. Fill a wide, deep skillet, a wide pot, or flame-proof roasting pan with about 1 1/2 inches of water. Place the pan over medium heat until the water is hot but not simmering. With the oval ice cream scoop, form a large, rounded egg-shape scoop of the meringue and drop it in the hot water. Repeat, rinsing the scoop between each one; do not overcrowd the pot-cook in batches if necessary. Poach the "eggs" until they feel firm to the touch, about 10 minutes, carefully turning them over in the water 3 times during the cooking. Never let the water come to a simmer.
12. Cover a large plate or a baking sheet with a cotton towel. Lift the snow eggs
    out of the water with a slotted spoon and place them on the towel. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.
13. Measure 3 cups of the caramel anglaise and freeze it in the ice cream machine, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Store in the freezer.
14. About 30 minutes before serving, set out 6 dinner plates. Cover a work surface with a sheet of plastic wrap. Run the tip of a small knife around the creme caramels to loosen, then unmold them onto the plastic, letting the excess caramel run off. Imagining that the plates are clock faces, place 1 creme caramel on each plate at twelve o'clock. Spoon 2 tablespoons of caramel anglaise at six o'clock. Place a cookie shell at nine o'clock and another at three o'clock. Set aside.
15. Whip the caramel mousse with an electric mixer on medium speed until
    very light. Put the mousse in the pastry bag. Lift up each cookie shell and pipe a dab of mousse underneath, to keep them stable on the plates. Pipe the mousse into 1 of the shells on each plate, piping an upside down cone shape about 4 inches high. Set aside.
16. Make the caramel for the decoration: Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring it to a boil. Use a pastry brush dipped in water to wash down any sugar crystals stuck to the sides of the pan. Have a bowl of cold water waiting. Cook until the sugar turns amber color and immediately set the pan in the cold water to stop the cooking. Take the pan out of the water and let it stand until the caramel thickens to a light syrup consistency (it must not be too thick).
17. Put the snow eggs on a work surface. Dip the tines of a fork in the caramel and wave the fork back and forth over the eggs a few times to streak them lightly with caramel. Pick the 6 nicest eggs and lay lover the caramel anglaise on each plate.
18. Lay the rolling pin across the kitchen sink or hold it with 1 hand. With the other hand, dip the tines of the fork in the caramel. Holding your hand a few inches above the rolling pin, flick your wrist back and forth quickly, spinning the caramel into fine gold threads. Gather the threads into a ball and place in the center of 1 of the plates. Repeat with the remaining plates.
19. Use the round ice cream scoop to make 6 balls of frozen creme anglaise,
    placing them in the remaining cookie shells. Serve immediately.