Judy Wicks, the owner of Philadelphia's renowned White Dog Cafe, has a clear agenda. "I use food to lure innocent customers into social action," she says. Since 1973, her restaurant has been known as much for the themed evenings it hosts to raise awareness for various causes as for the food prepared by Chef Kevin Von Klause, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America.
Wandering outside the walls of the Imperial Palace in Bangkok, Thailand, Judy and I happened upon vendors offering a revitalizing melon drink to the overheated tourists. We loved it, and adapted it into a beautiful, coral-colored soup that we serve icy-cold topped with chilled chopped poached shrimp and a splash of Thai fish sauce.
Pickled ginger is a widely used Asian condiment that is readily available in Asian markets and some specialty food stores. Many of our recipes call for pickled ginger juice, meaning the liquid that the ginger is packed in. It adds sparkle, life, and a jolt of flavor to soups, sauces, dressings, vinaigrettes, and relishes.
Serves 6
1 honeydew melon, peeled, seeded, and cut into large chunks
1 cantaloupe, peeled, seeded, and cut into large chunks
2 pounds watermelon (about ¨ small), peeled, seeded, and diced
3 tablespoons chopped pickled ginger
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
18 chilled, poached, peeled and deveined large shrimp
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves and stems, for garnish
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives, for garnish
2 tablespoons nam pla (Thai fish sauce, available in Asian markets and specialty food stores), for serving
Combine the melons and pickled ginger in a food processor or blender and process until liquefied, about 1 minute (depending on the size of your food processor you may need to puree the melon in batches).
Pour the puree into a nonreactive bowl and stir in the lime juice. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 1 hour.
To serve, divide the soup among 6 icy-cold bowls or plates. Top each serving with 3 shrimp, a sprinkle of the herbs, and a splash of nam pla.
Other Ways To Do It
This soup makes an exotic dessert if topped with a scoop of Orange-Ginger Sorbet instead of the shrimp and herbs. Or freeze it in a large shallow pan and scrape frozen soup into bowls for a refreshing granita.
