Part cookbook, part primer of Chinese medicine, Nina Simonds's A Spoonful of Ginger offers dietary advice, herbal home remedies, and lively, unintimidating Asian recipes for the American home cook. Try Braised Duck with Tangerine Peel and Sweet Potato as a cure for high blood pressure. Baked Black Bean Shrimp might be just the dish to get you over that bout of depression. Simonds presents the ailing reader with concoctions to relieve everything from hangovers to frostbite. And lovers of fine food
This quintessentially Sichuan dish illustrates the brilliance of western Chinese cooking: The silky noodles are superb drenched in the spicy sesame dressing. I make vats of the sauce in the summer and store it, covered, in my fridge for several weeks for an instant, satisfying meal. "Dan dan" is the Chinese equivalent for the distinctive noise made by the noodle vendor who sold this dish in the alleys of China.
1 teaspoon crushed dried chiles or dried chile flakes
6 tablespoons Chinese toasted sesame paste (stirred well before adding)
4 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
5 tablespoons soy sauce
1/4 cup rice wine or sake
1 1/2 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar or Worcestershire sauce:
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons chicken broth or water
1/2 pound thin egg noodles, such as angel hair or spaghettini
2 1/2 tablespoons canola or corn oil
2 cups minced scallion greens
Cut the pork loin into thin slices about 1/4 inch thick, then cut the slices into thin, matchstick-size shreds about 1 inch long. Put the shreds in a bowl, add the Marinade, and toss lightly to coat. Cover with plastic wrap, and let the pork marinate for 1 hour at room temperature, or longer if possible in the refrigerator.
Put the Sichuan peppercorns (if using) in a skillet, and toast over medium heat about 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until they are very fragrant. Let them cool slightly and then crush them into a powder with a rolling pin, mallet, or mortar and pestle.
Drop the seasonings of the Spicy Sesame Dressing in descending order into the feed tube of a good processor fitted with a steel blade while the machine is running. Mix together to a smooth sauce - it should have the consistency of heavy cream. Add the Sichuan peppercorn powder and mix. Pour into a serving bowl.
Bring 3 quarts water to a boil, add the noodles, and cook about 5 to 6 minutes, or until near tender. Drain in a colander, rinse lightly to remove the starch, and drain again thoroughly in a colander. Divide the noodles into six portions in soup bowl.
heat a wok or large skillet, add the oil, and heat until very hot. Add the pork and stir fry over high heat about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes., until the meat changes color and is cooked. Scoop it into a colander to drain; then spoon it over the individual servings of noodles and sprinkle about 1/3 cup minced scallion greens on top of each. Ladle some Spicy Sesame Dressing over all, and serve.
