The Cook and the Gardener is Amanda Hesser's first book. From the opening lines of its introduction, her literary gifts are as evident as her passion for good food. Since this work combines recipes with her essays about Monsieur Milbert (the gardener at the Chateau du Fey in Burgundy, where Hesser worked as the cook), readers get to enjoy both of her talents. Hesser worked hard to get M. Milbert to talk with her. She shares the careful, deliberate way she wooed him
Heat the grill. The cooking rack should be about 5 or 6 inches from the charcoal or wood.
While it heats, make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl combine the vinegar, mustard, and salt and whisk until the mustard is broken up and the salt has dissolved. Then slowly add the olive oil, first a few drops at a time, then in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly to emulsify the dressing. Combine the dressing and tomato in a small saucepan and warm over low heat. You want it to warm just enough to bring out all the flavor in the tomato. Keep warm while you grill the lamb chops.
Place the chops on the heated grill and let color, 4 to 5 minutes. Using tongs turn the chops and color the other side, another 4 to 5 minutes. If you like your lamb medium to well done, grill them 1 to 2 minutes more on each side.
Remove the chops to a serving plate and season them with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Whisk the warm vinaigrette to re-emulsify it, then add the mint leaves. Spoon the vinaigrette over the chops and serve immediately. If, for some reason, you wish to hold this, make sure you don't add the mint until serving, or it will turn black. Another interesting way to serve this is to make a bed of spicy greens, such as arugula and mustard, on the serving plate, then lay the lamb chops on top of them. The juices from the lamb and the vinaigrette will dress and lightly wilt the greens as the dish is carried to the table.
Note: If you don't have a grill, the lamb chops may also be broiled. Heat the broiler. Place the lamb chops on a rack 3 to 4 inches from the heating element and broil 3 to 5 minutes on each side.
