The Cook and the Gardener is Amanda Hesser's first book. From the opening lines of its introduction, her literary gifts are as evident as her passion for good food. Since this work combines recipes with her essays about Monsieur Milbert (the gardener at the Chateau du Fey in Burgundy, where Hesser worked as the cook), readers get to enjoy both of her talents. Hesser worked hard to get M. Milbert to talk with her. She shares the careful, deliberate way she wooed him
Rhubarb multiplies easily and can grow to mammoth proportions. The root of the plant is log-shaped, and from this log, several plants can shoot up each year.
Then, just when you're not looking, the rhubarb will bolt to seed, lifting its thick trunk high above the plant and releasing a shag of seed pods, which resemble miniature cross sections of an apple. Eventually, the ribs, which are used for cooking, wane and become pithy, marking the end to rhubarb's season.
This recipe was adapted from one created by Anne Willan and used at the Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne. It can be made without the berry leaves.
Serves 4
1 pound rhubarb stalks, peeled and sliced thin
1/2 cup white wine
1 cup sugar, or more if needed
4 to 5 boysenberry leaves
4 to 5 strawberry leaves
4 to 5 raspberry leaves
1 bag Ceylon tea
1 pint strawberries, washed, hulled,and halved (see note)
Vanilla ice cream (optional)
Place the rhubarb in a large heatproof bowl. Bring 1 cup of water, the wine, and the sugar to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Then turn off the heat. Add the berry leaves and tea and let infuse for 15 minutes. Bring back to a boil and strain over the rhubarb. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap to contain the heat and to create a hermetic atmosphere in which the rhubarb can absorb the flavors of the infusion. Let cool, then refrigerate for at least 8 hours, to crisp the rhubarb and allow it to imbibe the flavors further.
Before serving taste the syrup, adding more sugar if desired, and the strawberries. Ladle into tall parfait glasses or small flat bowls. If serving with ice cream, place one scoop in each glass and ladle the rhubarb over it.
Note: Strawberries may not yet be in season; in this case, either omit them, or if you have fruit preserved in alcohol (e.g., raspberries eau-de-vie) from the previous year, substitute these.
