Bernard Clayton has six very solid cookbooks to his credit, starting with The Complete Book of Breads, first published in the 1970s. Somehow it seems only fitting that he would wind his way, by book number seven, back to a big book about little breads. Does it fit in your palm? This appears to be the primary criterion for the breads in The Complete Book of Small Breads. There are beaten biscuits from the American South and steamed buns from China, pan dulce from Mexico and oatmeal flatbread from
The English muffin in this country is difficult to place because it really is not a muffin but someplace between the English pikelet or crumpet and the English fairy cake. The English call it the American muffin. Whichever, it is delicious.
Both agree that it is a sacrilege to cut open an English muffin with a knife. It must be town apart by hand or separated with forks if it is ever to attain its true splendor of rough peaks and valleys bathed in butter. Even the best muffin, once violated with a knife (no matter how sharp), can never give the taste sensation of one torn apart and toasted.
This recipe is for an English muffin made with batter ladled into an open muffin ring or tin and baked either in the oven or cooked atop the stove on a griddle or skillet. If muffin rings are not at hand, small cans (prepared meats or pet-food cans, for example), open-ended and well-scrubbed, work fine.
I have not done this with a food processor because the cleanup of the soft batter is not worth it.
8 Traditional Muffins
3 cups all-purpose flour, approximately
1 package dry yeast
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 cup nonfat dry milk
3 tablespoons butter, room temperature
1 1/2 cups hot water (120-130 degrees F.)
1 egg
RINGS OR TINS: Muffin rings, buttered
GRIDDLE, SKILLET, OR BAKING SHEET: Electric or soapstone griddle, or heavy skillet for stovetop cooking. Baking sheet for the oven.
BY HAND OR MIXER - 12 minutes: In a large mixing or mixer bowl, measure 1 1/2 cups of flour, yeast, sugar, salt, and dry milk. Stir to blend. Add the butter to the hot water and then to the dry ingredients. Beat for 2 minutes with the mixer flat beater or 150 strokes with a wooden spoon. Add the egg and the remaining 1/2 cup of flour. Stir to mix well.
FIRST RISING - 1 1/2 to 2 hours: Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 1 1/2 to 2 hours while the batter bubbles and rises to double in volume. It will have a pleasantly sour smell, thanks to the fermentation. In the meantime, butter the rings.
SECOND RISING - 45 minutes: Place the buttered rings on the baking sheet. Stir down the batter and ladle each ring half full. Put aside to rise to the top edge, about 45 minutes. No need to cover.
PREHEAT: While the batter is rising, preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
BAKING - 400 degrees F. 25 minutes: Place the rings in the oven. Muffins will not be turned over as they would be on the stovetop griddle or skillet. Bake until a golden brown and springy when tapped down with a finger, about 25 minutes.
GRIDDLE OR SKILLET - 15 minutes: Place the rings on the griddle/skillet with sufficient room between each to lift. With the rings in place, heat the griddle/skillet over a medium-low heat for about 10 minutes.
Stir down the batter and carefully half fill each ring with a ladle or large spoon. Spread the batter evenly. Cook over low to medium heat so as not to scorch.
TURNS - 5-minute intervals: When the batter has risen to the top of the rings, the bubbles begin to show, as in a pancake, and the batter pulls away from the sides, lift off the rings. Turn over. Continue to turn and cook for an additional 10 to 15 minutes, until the muffins are a deep brown and springy when pierced.
FINAL STEP: Remove muffins from the griddle or baking sheet. Cool on metal rack before toasting. Pull apart with the tines of a fork, or the fingers to toast.
These freeze well and keep for months in the freezer at 0 degrees
