Bernard Clayton has six very solid cookbooks to his credit, starting with The Complete Book of Breads, first published in the 1970s. Somehow it seems only fitting that he would wind his way, by book number seven, back to a big book about little breads. Does it fit in your palm? This appears to be the primary criterion for the breads in The Complete Book of Small Breads. There are beaten biscuits from the American South and steamed buns from China, pan dulce from Mexico and oatmeal flatbread from
This recipe is from a half-century-old booklet developed by General Mills for commercial bakers. It is equally comfortable in the home kitchen. Egg whites, whipped to a light peak, produce a thin, crisp paper-shell crust that will keep the rolls fresh and delicious for a long period of time. Store in a bread box or paper sack. Don't place them in a plastic bag or they will quickly lose their crispness. If this should happen, reheat the rolls.
1 Dozen Large, 2 Dozen Small Rolls
3 to 4 cups bread flours, approximately
1 package yeast
2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 cups hot water (100-120 degrees F)
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable shortening
1/2 teaspoon malt extract (optional)
2 egg whites
BAKING SHEET: One 11"-x-17" baking sheet, greased or Teflon.
BY HAND OR MIXER - 15 minutes: In a large bowl or mixer bowl, mix together 1 1/2 cups of flour, yeast, salt, and water. Stir to blend. Cream the sugar and shortening together and drop into the batterlike dough. Add malt extract, if available.
Beat the egg whites to a light peak and fold into the mixture. Add the balance of the flour, 1/2 cup at a time, until it becomes a shaggy mass, moist and stringy.
KNEAD - 6-8 minutes: Turn the dough onto a floured work surface and knead with a strong push-turn-fold motion by had for 8 minutes or 6 minutes with a dough hook. Dough will be elastic and smooth.
BY PROCESSOR - 5 minutes: Place 2 cups of flour and the yeast, salt, water, sugar, shortening, and malt extract, if available, in the work bowl. Pulse 3 or 4 times to blend the ingredients. Set aside for a moment. Whip the egg whites and add to the work bowl. Pulse to blend.
Add remaining flour, 1/2 cup at a time, pulsing each time to blend the ingredients. Add the last cup of flour with care so that the dough doesn't suddenly turn into a hard ball.
KNEADING - 50 seconds: When the dough cleans the sides of the work bowl and rides in a ball on top of the blade, knead for 50 seconds. Dough will be soft and elastic.
FIRST RISING - 1-1 1/2 hours: Place the dough in a greased bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and place in a warm spot (80-90 degrees F.) to double in size.)
SHAPING - 10 minutes: For small rolls, cut the dough into 1-ounce pieces, about the size of a golf ball. For larger rolls, cut the dough into 2- or 3-ounce pieces. Roll tight balls under the palm. Press down hard as you roll the dough.
Place the rolls on the baking sheet, taking care to allow sufficient room between each so they will not touch during rising. If they do, they will not brown overall as they should.
SECOND RISING - 45 minutes: Cover rolls and put in a worm place until double in volume, about 45 minutes.
PREHEAT: Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. 20 minutes before baking.
BAKING - 400 degrees F. - 25-30 minutes: Place baking sheet on the middle shelf of the oven. Baking time will be between 25 and 30 minutes, depending on the size of the rolls. Rolls will be done when a golden brown.
FINAL STEP: Place crispy rolls on rack to cool. Serve immediately or store in a paper sack to preserve crust.
If rolls should lose their crispiness, reheat in 300 degree F oven for 15 minutes. Rolls may be frozen. Thaw and reheat.
