Crespelle with Zucchini, Anchovies, and Mozzarella
Book Description
You may find yourself dusting off your hand-cranked pasta machine after thumbing through Erica de Mane's Pasta Improvvisata. She has taken pasta in one hand, tradition in the other, and pulled together an inspired cookbook. This book is about cooking. Sure, there are plenty of recipes, but each recipe is a point of departure that encourages inspired cooking.
Here are cannelloni made with crespelle, the Italian version of crepes. This easy batter (which I make with olive oil instead of the more usual butter) is wonderful for making spur-of-the-moment filled pasta. The filling idea comes from the fried zucchini blossoms filled with mozzarella and anchovies that Romans make in early summer.
To make the crespelle, put all the ingredients into a food processor and process until you have a smooth batter. Pour the batter into a bowl and let it rest for about 30 minutes.
I make crespelle in a 7-inch nonstick omelet pan. Heat the pan and brush it lightly with olive oil. Pour in enough batter (about 3 tablespoons for a 7-inch pan) to lightly coat the pan. Tilt the pan, lifting it off the heat for a moment, until the surface is completely covered with batter. Cook over medium heat until the edges of the crespelle just begin to turn golden, usually less than 1 minute. Turn the crespelle with a metal spatula and cook for a few seconds on the other side. The first few have a tendency to stick and tear, but the process becomes much easier once the pan is well seasoned and the heat is regulated. You can stack the crespelle on a large plate as you make them. Add more oil to the pan as you need it. (Crespelle can be made ahead of time, stacked, covered with plastic wrap, and refrigerated 2 days before being filled and baked.)
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Lightly oil a 13 x 9x 2-inch baking dish.
To make the filling, heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet. Add the onion and sauté a few minutes to soften. Add the garlic and sauté 1 minute, just until it gives off aroma. Add the zucchini and season with very little salt (you will be adding anchovies later) and more liberally with pepper. Sauté until the zucchini is tender and lightly browned but still holds its shape. Turn off the heat. Add the anchovies and mix well. Let the mixture cool a bit, then add the mozzarella and herbs and mix again.
Spread the crespelle with a few tablespoons of the zucchini filling and roll them loosely. Place them next to each other, seam side down, in the baking dish. Pour the tomato-shallot sauce down the middle of the dish, letting it run down between the crespelle a bit, and top with a sprinkling of grated Montasio and freshly ground black pepper.
Bake, uncovered, until the top is lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes.
Ideas: Crespelle batter can be flavored with citrus zest, chopped herbs, or a ground spice such as nutmeg or fennel seed.
Zucchini is used extensively in southern Italian cooking. Its taste is very mild, so especially when using it as a filling, make sure it's well seasoned. I like zucchini sautéed and then tossed with a few tablespoons of basil pesto. Traditional French ratatouille makes a splendid filling for crespelle.
