"The closer your cooking stays to the seasons, the simpler--and better--your cooking will be." Michael Chiarello's mom told him that as he stood beside her at the stove, learning what a real Italian tomato sauce looks, smells, and sounds like as it cooks. Those lessons led him into the chef's life and his own restaurant in the heart of California's wine country, Tra Vigne.
Serving the pastina in a pumpkin isn't necessary, but it is appropriate and fun this time of year. And it's simple, too. The hardest part is getting the pumpkin home and resisting the temptation to carve it. You could also make individual tureens with smaller pumpkins and hard squashes such as acorn squash. Use some of their flesh in the pastina. Just make sure you leave enough behind, or the shells will not be sturdy enough to be containers. If you just gave me the pastina in a bowl with a big spoon, I'd be very happy.
Serves 4
1 Jack-o'-Lantern or other large pumpkin, about 6 pounds
Extra-virgin olive oil for oiling pumpkin, plus 2 tablespoons
Salt and freshly ground pepper
About 4 cups chicken stock or canned low-salt chicken broth
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
3/4 pound dried pastina or other small pasta such as riso
1 cup Roasted Winter Squash
1 cup cubed cooked turkey, plain or smoked (about 1/4 pound; optional)
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Cut the lid off the pumpkin and scoop out the seeds and fibers. Scrape away some of the flesh, especially around the top, to form a large, smooth inner cavity. Make sure to leave the shell at least 1 inch thick all around. Oil the pumpkin inside and out and season inside with salt and pepper. Replace the lid. Place on a baking sheet and bake until about two-thirds cooked but still firm enough to stand and act as the soup container, about 40 minutes. Do not overbake. If a good deal of liquid gathers in the bottom, spoon out and discard. Set aside; it will stay warm on its own a good while.
Bring the stock to a low simmer in a saucepan. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat until hot. Add the onion and cook until soft but not brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the thyme, stir, and add 2 cups of the stock. Bring to a boil. Add the pastina, stir well, and reduce the heat to maintain a slow simmer. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer, adding the stock 1/2 cup at a time as the previous addition is absorbed and stirring occasionally to prevent the pastina from sticking to the bottom of the pan, until the pasta is al dente, about 15 minutes. Add the roasted squash and turkey to reheat. Stir well. The consistency should be quite loose, like a thick soup. Add more stock if necessary. Add the 1/2 cup cheese and let melt for a moment before stirring in. Taste for seasoning.
Ladle the pastina into the reserved pumpkin shell and garnish with the remaining 2 tablespoons Parmesan. Replace the lid and take to the table immediately
Variation with Greens: For a colorful and nutritious addition, cut several handfuls of winter greens such as spinach or chard into a chiffonade and stir into the pastina just to wilt before serving.
