Which came first: the chicken or the Eglise-Clinet? Well, if you're a disciple of author Sid Goldstein--and you will be--you've had that Bordeaux decanted long before you even thought of shopping for those Cacciatore ingredients. And "wine-first" cooking is precisely what Goldstein--vice president and director of marketing communications at Mendocino, California's Fetzer Vineyards--so ably demonstrates in The Wine Lover's Cookbook
Recommended wine: Syrah blend
Alternative wine: Champagne/sparkling wine, preferably a bland de noir
One of the most challenging tricks with food and wine pairing is marrying wine to the spicy heat of chiles. Finding a red wine that works is even more difficult. Adapted from my colleague John Ash's recipe, this traditional Mexican mole presents interesting opportunities due to its reliance on unsweetened chocolate, a flavor note found in many Syrah-based wines. The bright fruitiness of a bland de noir or a light, dry French rose are two other intriguing options. You'll be pleasantly surprised at how well this intense, richly textured sauce can be contrasted by the bright, juicy fruit in either the champagne or rose, which cleanse the palate of the burst of chocolate and spice flavors. The extra sauce and rice can be used with grilled or roasted chicken as leftovers. This dish is well worth trying despite the slightly long ingredient list.
Serves 6 to 8 as an entree
1 (4 pound) pork roast, rolled and tied
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 teaspoon crushed black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon ground sage
3 tablespoons olive oil
Mole
1 1/3 cups sliced yellow onions
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 1/2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon coriander seed, toasted and crushed
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped, seeded pasilla chiles (see note)
1 tablespoon chopped chipotle chilies in adobo (see note)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
3 1/2 cups chicken stock
1/4 cup smooth peanut butter
4 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
7 tablespoons raisins
2 1/2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped (see note)
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
Mexican Rice
1 1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 cup chopped yellow onions
2 cups Basmati rice
2 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground oregano
1 teaspoon toasted fennel seed
3 cups chicken stock
1 (14 ounce) can chopped tomatoes with juice
8 ounces feta cheese (tomato-basil if available), cut into 1/4-inch cubes
1 cup chopped, roasted, peeled, and seeded peppers (yellow and red bell peppers, Anaheim chiles)
Garnish: cilantro sprigs, lime slices
Sprinkle pork roast with salt, pepper, cinnamon, cumin, oregano, and sage, and rub into roast on all sides.
In a large sauté pan or skillet over medium heat, heat olive oil. Place pork roast in pan and lightly brown on all sides, including ends. To brown ends, hold pork roast upright with a large fork. When browned, remove pork from pan and put in a glass baking dish. Reserve oil for mole sauce. Refrigerate pork roast, covered, until ready to cook.
In a preheated 350 degree F oven, roast pork for 1 1/2 hours, until it reaches an internal temperature of 165 degrees F. (The roast can also be cooked on a gas grill over indirect medium, heat with great results.)
Meanwhile, to make mole, using the same pan that was used for searing the pork, sauté onions and garlic over medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes, until onions are translucent. Add sesame seeds, cinnamon, cloves, coriander seed, pasilla chiles, chipotle, and cilantro and continue cooking for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Add stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Pour stock mixture into a food processor or blender. Add peanut butter, tomato paste, raisins, chocolate, and lime juice and process until smooth. Return sauce to pan and simmer, covered, for 35 to 40 minutes. Thin with additional stock, if necessary. Sauce should be fairly thick. Season to taste.
To make Mexican rice: in a medium sauté pan or skillet over medium heat, heat butter and oil. Add shallots and onions and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes, until onions are translucent. Add rice, cumin, oregano, and fennel seed, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add stock and tomatoes. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 10 to 12 minutes or until most of liquid is absorbed in rice. Stir in feta and peppers, cover, and continue to cook for 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat and allow the rice to rest for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork thoroughly prior to serving.
To serve: slice pork and place on plates. Top with mole and serve rice on the side. Garnish with cilantro sprigs and lime slices.
Notes: Pasilla peppers are dried chiles that can be found in most grocery stores. Chipotle in adobo is a fiery Latin condiment make with smoked jalapeno peppers that are pickle in vinegar. It can be found canned in the ethnic food aisles of many supermarkets. For the chocolate, try to find Mexican Ibarra unsweetened chocolate available in gourmet
