In The Kitchen Sessions, chef and restaurateur Charlie Trotter makes his unique way with food available to home cooks in dishes somewhat less esoteric than those in his other cookbooks. Trotter compares his cooking with jazz improvisation. His Portobello Mushroom Vinaigrette, for example, bursts from the Salsify and Pickled Mushroom Salad like a high, clear note that lingers
These short ribs are succulent and rich, and they are suprisingly simple to prepare. After marinating overnight, they require nothing more than a slow braising with the vegetables for three to four hours. The ribs can be made well ahead of time and reheated at the last moment. The Zinfandel sauce in this recipe adds a complex fruitiness and acidity that cuts the meat. Braised greens and tangy mustard spaetzle make this a complete meal - a deeply satisfying meal at that.
Serves 4
1 cup chopped onions
1/2 cup chopped leeks
1 Granny Smith apple, chopped
6 cloves garlic, chopped
2 jalapenos, chopped
4 tablespoons canola oil
4 cups Zinfandel
8 short ribs, trimmed of excess fat
5 tablespoons olive oil
4 sprigs thyme
4 sage leaves
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, tied up in cheesecloth to make a sachet
Salt and pepper
4 cups Chicken Stock
2 Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into thick wedges
1/3 cup chopped raw bacon
4 cups mustard greens, cleaned and chopped
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
Mustard Spaetzle (recipe follows)
Method: To prepare the ribs: Caramelize the onions, leeks, apple, garlic, and jalapenos in a hot sauté pan in 2 tablespoons of the canola oil over medium-high heat for 7 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Ad the Zinfandel and bring to a simmer. Cool the mixture and add the short ribs, 3 tablespoons olive oil, thyme, sage, and coriander seeds. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours. Remove the ribs from the marinade and season them with salt and pepper. Sear the ribs in a hot roasting pan with the remaining 2 tablespoons canola oil for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Add the marinade and stock and cover with aluminum foil. Place the roasting pan in a 350 degree F oven and braise for 3 to 4 hours, or until the meat is fork tender.
Cool the ribs in the liquid then remove from the roasting pan and set aside. Strain the liquid and place in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer the braising liquid for 30 to 45 minutes, or until reduced to 1 1/2 cups.
Place the ribs on a roasting pan and reheat in a 350 degree F oven for 5 to 10 minutes, or until warm.
To prepare the vegetables: toss the potato and turnip wedges with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Place on a sheet pan and roast at 325 degrees F for 45 to 60 minutes, or until tender.
To prepare the mustard greens: Render the bacon in a sauté pan and add the mustard greens. Cook for 3 minutes and add the water, balsamic vinegar, and sugar. Continue to cook the greens for 10 to 15 minutes, or until tender, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Assembly: Place 2 braised short ribs and some of the mustard greens into each bowl with a small amount of the braising liquid. Arrange some of the roasted potato and turnip wedges in the bowls. Sprinkle with the Mustard Spaetzle and tope with freshly ground black pepper.
Wine notes: The rich meat from the short ribs melts in your mouth and needs the cleansing quality of tannin to cut through the richness. A red with rich tannin and smoky fruit will be perfect with this dish. Zinfandel by Steele Vineyards such as Pacini or Catfish vineyards will be a great match.
Mustard Spaetzle
For a more intense mustard flavor, toss the cooked spaetzle with a spoonful of grainy mustard.
Yield: 2 cups
2 eggs, beaten
3 tablespoons stone-ground mustard
2 cups flour, or more or less as needed
1 1/4 cups milk
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
Method: Combine the eggs, mustard, and flour in a medium bowl. Gradually add enough of the milk to make a fairly stiff batter. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Using a pastry bag, spoon, or spaetzle maker, drop 1/2 teaspoonfuls of batter into simmering, lightly salted water. Cook for about 1 minute, or until the spaetzle floats, and drain. Sauté the spaetzle in the butter for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown and crispy. Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm.
