In Italy there are no mothers who are bad cooks. Can this be possible? In the case of Giuliano Hazan, whose mother is Marcella Hazan, yes. Marcella is the doyenne of Italian cookbook authors published in the United States. And Giuliano is no slouch, either. Though his first cookbook, The Classic Pasta Cookbook, is lamentably out of print, it is a laurel upon which he could have rested. Fortunately
I had this delectable lamb dish at a restaurant called LaTaverna del Lupo in Gubbio, a town about twenty miles north of Assisi. The meat cooks slowly with herbs and tomatoes and becomes so moist and tender it almost melts in your mouth.
Minutes to prepare: 15
Minutes from start to finish: 90
Serves: 4 to 6
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 pounds bone-in lamb shoulder, cut into slices 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon fresh sage leaves
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary leaves
2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 1/2 cups canned whole peeled tomatoes with their juice, coarsely chopped
2 bay leaves
Heat the olive oil over high heat in a heavy braising pan that can accommodate the lamb snugly When the oil is hot, brown half the lamb on both sides. Transfer it to a platter and repeat with the remaining lamb. Season with salt and pepper and remove the pan from the heat.
Chop the sage and rosemary and add to the pan along with the chopped garlic. Stir a few times, and return the pan to high heat. As soon as the herbs start to sizzle, add the white wine. Let it reduce a little so that the alcohol evaporates, then add the tomatoes and bay leaves. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Put the lamb back in the pan, reduce the heat so that the liquid is bubbling at a gentle but steady simmer, and place the cover on the pan slightly askew. Cook, turning the meat every 15 to 20 minutes, until it becomes very tender, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. If the liquid in the pan evaporates before the meat is done, add a little water.
Transfer the lamb to a platter. If there is still too much liquid in the pan, raise the heat to reduce the sauce. Skim off any excess fat, pour the sauce over the meat, and serve.
NOTE: This dish is just as good 1 or 2 days after it is made. To reheat, add 2 tablespoons water, cover the pan, and place it over medium-low heat for 10 to 15 minutes.
