Authentic Vietnamese Cooking offers remarkable insight into the history and details of this seemingly simple yet enchantingly sophisticated cuisine. Author Corinne Trang shares the story of her family, starting with her grandparents, who emigrated from Hunan, China, to Cambodia and then to Vietnam. Eventually, Trang herself made homes in Paris and New York, as well as Asia. The resulting blending of cultures and culinary traditions in her family is a common experience for Southeast Asians who
In this ice cream, a vanilla custard is infused with star anise, a dry spice used in many Asian cuisines. The vanilla bean can be reused 2 to 3 times, so do not discard it after making the custard. (Blot it dry prior to putting it away.) If you feel up to it, try infusing the custard with fresh lemongrass (see Variation). Both versions are interesting, refreshing, and bound to be conversation starters after an elaborate meal.
Makes: about 1 1/2 pints
4 cups plus 2 tablespoons half-and-half
1 vanilla bean or 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
12 whole star anise
3/4 cup sugar or more
4 egg yolks
1 1/2 tablespoons tapioca starch
1 teaspoon ground star anise
Pour 4 cups half-and-half into the top of a double boiler over medium heat. Add the vanilla bean (or vanilla extract) and star anise and simmer for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk together the sugar and egg yolks in a mixing bowl until the yolks turn thick and pale. Strain the half-and-half through a fine sieve to remove vanilla bean, and discard star anise. Temper the yolks by gradually adding the hot half-and-half (a cup at a time) while whisking vigorously so as not to scramble the eggs.
Return the mixture to the top part of the double boiler and whisk over simmering water until slightly thickened and heated through, 10 to 15 minutes. Dilute the tapioca starch with the remaining 2 tablespoons half-and-half and add it to the mixture. Continue whisking to a custard consistency that coats the back of a spoon, about 2 minutes. Refrigerate overnight (or at least 12 hours). Transfer the custard to a heatproof bowl set over an ice bath and refrigerate overnight (or at least 12 hours).
The next day, pour the custard into an ice cream maker and process the custard according to the manufacturer's instructions, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer the ice cream to a container and freeze until ready to serve. Lightly dust each portion with ground star anise before serving.
Variation: Substitute 12 fresh lemongrass stalks for the star anise. Remove the outer leaves and tough green tops from each stalk. Trim the root ends, and with a cleaver lightly crush the white to light green part of the stalks. Finely grind 1 lemongrass stalk and reserve for the garnish. Use the remaining stalks in place of the star anise in step 1 (remove in step 2). For the garnish, make a caramel with 1/4 cup sugar and 2 tablespoons water in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. When the sugar starts to bubble and becomes light golden, add finely ground lemongrass and stir until evenly coated. Remove from the heat, transfer to an oiled baking sheet, and crush the candied lemongrass with the handle of a cleaver if necessary. Sprinkle candied lemongrass on top of each serving of ice cream.
