Greg Patent, recognizing that many of America's worthiest breads, cakes, and other sweets have disappeared over time, retrieves them in perfected, easy-to-follow form, while also providing a selection of contemporary favorites, in his book Baking in America. From the first American cookbook, American Cookery, published in 1776, to and beyond the works of influential American cookbook writers including Eliza Leslie, Amelia Simmons, and Fannie Farmer, the book serves up such temptations
This cake is spectacular. It rises almost 2 inches above the pan rim and has a fabulous, tender texture. You will need a candy thermometer or a digital probe thermometer. The most scrumptious way to serve the cake is to slather slices generously with softly whipped cream and then spoon lightly sugared sliced fresh peaches or strawberries on top.
Makes one 10-inch tube cake, 12 to 16 servings
1 1/2 cups sifted cake flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
8 large eggs, separated
1 3/4 cups sugar
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons water
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon pure lemon extract
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
Have ready a grease-free 10x4-inch tube pan with a removable bottom (not nonstick).
Resift the flour with the salt; set aside.
Beat the egg yolks in a large wide bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed for 1 minute. Increase the speed to high and beat until the yolks have increased in volume and are very thick and pale,5 to 6 minutes. Set aside.
Heat 1 1/2 cups of the sugar and 1/2 cup of the water in a small heavy saucepan over high heat without stirring, swirling the mixture occasionally as it comes to a boil. When the mixture boils and turns clear, cover the pan and boil for 2 to 3 minutes to dissolve any sugar crystals on the sides of the pan. Uncover, attach a candy thermometer or digital probe thermometer, and cook, without stirring, until the temperature reaches 230 degrees to 234 degrees.
Just before the syrup is ready, beat the egg yolks again for a few seconds on high speed. Pour about 2 tablespoons of the syrup onto the yolks, then immediately turn the mixer to high speed and beat for 5 to 10 seconds. Continue adding the syrup in small installments, then beat for a few seconds, until it all has been added. Beat for several minutes longer, until the mixture is cool. Beat in the lemon zest, lemon juice, lemon extract, and the remaining 2 tablespoons water. Add the flour mixture and beat it in on low speed only until incorporated.
In another large bowl, with clean beaters, beat the whites with the mixer on medium speed until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until the whites form soft droopy peaks when the beaters are raised. Beat in the remaining 1/4 cup sugar about 1 tablespoon at a time, beating for about 15 seconds after each addition. Increase the speed to medium-high and beat for a few seconds more, until the whites form peaks that curl a bit at their tips; do not overbeat.
Add about one fourth of the whites to the yolks and fold them together with a large rubber spatula, using few broad strokes. Don't be too thorough. Scrape the remaining whites on top and fold together until the mixture is a uniform yellow color. Gently transfer the batter to the tube pan and smooth the top.
Adjust an oven rack to the lower third position. Place the pan in the oven and turn on the oven to 350 degrees. Bake for 50 to 55 minutes, until the cake is well browned, has a few cracks on top, and springs back when gently pressed. Immediately invert the pan onto a narrow-necked bottle. Let cool completely upside down, about 2 hours.
Loosen the sides of the cake from the pan with a narrow thin-bladed knife. Run the knife between the cake and the central tube. Lift the cake out of the pan by its tube and release the cake from the bottom of the pan with the knife. Carefully turn the cake out onto a square of waxed paper placed on the countertop. Cover the bottom with a wire rack, and invert again so that the cake is right side up. Transfer the cake to a cake plate. To serve, cut with a serrated knife using a gentle sawing motion.
