Fresh Strawberry and Orange-Flower Water Marshmallows
Book Description
Dorie Greenspan's most vivid memory of her first trip to Paris doesn't have anything to do with the Eiffel Tower, but rather a heavenly strawberry tartlet. Overwhelmed by its extraordinary flavor, texture, and appearance, Greenspan was "hooked on Paris and hooked on the city's sweets." Paris Sweets is the result of 30 years of searching for the most delectable, delicious, awe-inspiring pastries she could find, and then convincing their creators to part with the recipes. Scattered throughout
This recipe was given to me by Philippe Andrieu, the executive pastry chef of Paris's most romantic patisserie, Laduree. At Laduree, the pretty pink puffs, flavored with fresh strawberry puree and a splash of orange-flower water, are used to finish the shop's delectable strawberry tart, but it almost goes without saying that the marshmallows are also delectable on their own. In fact, at some of Paris's best and most expensive restaurants, marshmallows are offered as a post-dessert nibble. In luxe restaurants (as well as in fine candy shops), marshmallows are formed not in squares, as they are in America, but in long chubby lanyards, and they are displayed in tall glass apothecary jars. When they are served to you in a great restaurant, the waiter lifts up a lanyard with a pair of silver tongs and then, always with a flourish, cuts off small cubes using large shears that resemble the ones the king's tailor uses in cartoons.
I made these strawberry marshmallows for the first time when I was in Paris and I was thoroughly surprised to find that all my French friends were as shocked that I had made marshmallows a la maison as my American friends were when I repeated this act of great fun in New York. Even for the French, marshmallows don't seem doable in a home kitchen-but they are. And, what's more, they're not just fun to make but easy as well. The only special equipment you need is a large-capacity stand mixer (the bowl should hold at least 5 quarts) and a candy thermometer. After that, what you need is a bunch of marshmallow munchers, since the recipe makes just over 2 pounds. Fortunately; if you keep the marshmallows in a cool, dry place, they'll be fine for over a week.
Approximately 1 cup (100 grams) potato starch (available in the baking or kosher foods section of most supermarkets)
Line a 12 x 17-inch (30 x 42.5-cm) baking sheet that has a 1-inch (2.5-cm) rim with parchment paper and dust the paper heavily with potato starch; keep close at hand.
Puree the strawberries in a blender (traditional or hand-held) or food processor. You should have a scant 1/2 cup (100 grams); set this aside.
Put 2/3 cup (150 grams) of the water, 2 1/2 cups (500 grams) of the sugar, and all of the corn syrup into a medium saucepan and bring to the boil over medium heat, stirring just until the sugar dissolves. Once the sugar dissolves, stop stirring and continue to cook the syrup until it reaches 265 degrees (130 C) on a candy thermometer, a process that could take about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, sprinkle the gelatin over the remaining 2/3 cup (150 grams) cold water and let soften for 5 minutes, then heat for 35 to 45 seconds in a microwave oven to liquefy (or do this stovetop); set this aside.
Put the egg whites in the clean, dry bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat on medium-high speed until they form firm, glossy peaks. (Make sure not to overbeat, or the peaks will go dull.)
As soon as the sugar syrup has come up to temperature, reduce the mixer speed to medium and add the syrup, pouring it close to the side of the bowl to avoid the spinning whisk. Using the same technique, add the dissolved gelatin. Beat for about 3 minutes to fully incorporate the syrup and gelatin.
Switch to a large rubber spatula and very gently fold the strawberry puree, as well as the orange-flower water, into the hot batter. Turn the batter out onto the potato starch-dusted baking sheet and spread it into one of the ends, making sure it reaches into the corners. Continue spreading the batter, keeping it 1-inch (2.5 cm) thick; you'll probably have enough batter to make a 12-inch (30-cm) square. Lift the excess parchment paper up to meet the edge of the marshmallow batter and put something against the paper to keep it in place (a couple of spice jars or custard cups or some dried beans will do the trick). Generously dust the top of the marshmallow square with potato starch. Allow the marshmallow to cool and set in a cool, dry place, about 3 hours (they can rest overnight, if that's more convenient for you).
When you are ready to serve the marshmallows, cut the square into lanyards or cubes using a thin-bladed knife or large scissors. In either case, moisten and clean the blade(s) often. Cut marshmallows should be dusted allover with potato starch and the excess shaken off.
Keeping: Dusted with potato starch, marshmallows will hold up for a week or more if you pack them in an airtight container and keep them in a cool, dry place.
An American in Paris: Of course an American would toast these, but I wouldn't suggest it. However, I would strongly suggest that you cut some small marshmallow squares and toss them on top of an ice cream sundae. If you want to change the flavor of the marshmallows, it's easily done by changing the puree: play around with raspberry, peach, mango, or apricot.
