Can it be 30 years since Diana Kennedy's first cookbook was published? Since then, and due largely to her, Americans have learned that Mexican food isn't just burritos and combination plates, but a subtle, highly developed repertoire with roots in European as well as native Mexican cooking. The Essential Cuisines of Mexico combines in one book Kennedy's first three works, The Cuisines of Mexico, The Tortilla Book, and Mexican Regional Cooking. Updated and revised, and with 30 new recipes
Every region has its albondiga recipe, but I think this dish really comes into its own in the northwest of Mexico—Sonora, Sinaloa, and farther south in Jalisco. Señora Rubio, a delightful old lady in Guadalajara with a great reputation as a cook, gave me her family recipes and here they are - the recipe below and the one that follows. I think they are the best I have ever eaten, They are very soft because of both the finely ground meat and the long, gentle cooking; then there is the texture given by the zucchini and the fresh flavor of the mint.
Always leave a little fat on the meat for the meatballs as it adds flavor and makes for a more spongy texture. My good friend and great cook Maria Luisa Martinez grinds up some chicharrón (pork cracklings) and adds that to the mixture for the same reasons.
Servings: 6
THE MEATBALLS
1 1/2 tablespoons long-grain unconverted white rice
12 ounces (340 g) ground pork
12 ounces (340 g) ground beef
6 ounces (180 g) zucchini
2 large eggs
1/4 scant teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
3 sprigs fresh mint
8 peppercorns
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 scant teaspoon cumin seeds
1/3 cup (85 ml) finely chopped white onion
THE SAUCE:
12 ounces (340 g) tomatoes
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup (250 ml) thinly sliced white onion
4 cups (1 l) light meat or chicken broth
Cover the rice well with boiling water and leave it to soak for about 45 minutes.
Grind the meat using the finest screen of the meat grinder. Trim the zucchini and chop them very finely. Add to the meat. Blend the eggs with the rest of the meatball ingredients until smooth and mix well into the meat.
Drain the rice and add it to the mixture. Make 24 meatballs, each about 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) in diameter.
Pour boiling water over the tomatoes to cover and cook for about 5 minutes. Drain and blend until almost smooth.
Heat the oil in a wide pan and cook the onion gently, until translucent, Add the tomatoes, bring it to a boil, and let it cook fast for about 3 minutes. Add the broth to the tomato sauce and bring it to a simmer. Add the meatballs, cover the pan, and let them simmer for 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Serve in deep bowls with plenty of sauce.
You can cook these albondigas ahead of time, the day before, or you can even freeze them.
