Asked what they want of a chef's cookbook, most readers would reply, good contemporary recipes I can actually make at home. This seemingly simple requirement can sometimes be lost in the rush to deliver signature dishes that serve to support or further reputation. Fortunately, that isn't the case with Inspired by Ingredients by Bill Telepan, chef at Manhattan's JUdson Grill. Noted for his fresh, direct cooking, Telepan gives readers 80-plus recipes for a wide range of year-round dishes.
This is a very adult dessert; it includes a quantity of rum that does not get cooked out. It’s so rich that very thin slices are the way to go. Most people think of Thanksgiving leftovers as being confined to the savory offerings, but this cake will last forever. If you store it in the refrigerator and can restrain yourself, you can snack on it for up to two weeks. But beware, you might not be able to resist.
You will need a candy thermometer for this recipe.
Servings: 16 to 20
BUTTERSCOTCH FILLING:
1 1/4 cups dark brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup corn syrup
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
3 cups cream
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoon dark rum
CAKE LAYERS:
3 1/3 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
18 tablespoons (2 sticks plus 2 tablespoons) butter, softened at room temperature
2 1/4 cups granulated brown sugar (Domino Brownulated or very fine turbinado)
4 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 cup dark rum
1 cup milk
BUTTERSCOTCH FILLING
Put all of the filling ingredients except the vanilla and rum into a large heavy-bottomed saucepan. Have another pot of a similar size ready and on the side. Over medium-high heat, melt the sugars, stirring continuously until the butterscotch boils. Once the mixture comes to a boil, stir frequently, taking care not to scrape any sugar crystals from the sides. Cook at a full boil until the mixture reaches 242 degrees F.
Immediately pour the butterscotch into the empty pot. (Do not scrape the sides or bottom of the cooking pot, which would cause the filling to crystallize.) From a height, add the vanilla and rum. It will steam (and burn you if you aren’t careful) right away. Stir to combine. Cool the filling for 20 minutes. It should be thick yet pourable.
CAKE LAYERS
Cut ten 8-inch circles of parchment or waxed paper. The baking will progress more quickly if you have at least three 8-inch cake pans. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Combine the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg in a medium mixing bowl. Whisk lightly to combine. Using an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachments, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each addition. Lower the speed and add half of the flour mixture. Blend well. Add the vanilla, rum, and milk. When the liquid is just combined, add the remaining flour mixture and beat until smooth.
Fill each cake pan, three at a time, with a heaping 1⁄2 cup of batter. Use a spatula to evenly spread the batter in the bottom of the pans. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the cakes spring back when lightly touched. Cool the layers in the pans slightly, remove, wipe the pan sides clean, and continue to fill and bake. You will need 9 layers.
Line the inside of a clean, dry cake pan with plastic wrap. If the plastic wrap sticks out above the rim of the cake pan, fold it over the outside of the pan. Peel the paper from one cake layer and place the layer upside down in the pan. Ladle about 1⁄4 cup of warm filling over the cake. Top with another cake layer, paper removed. Continue ladling the filling evenly over each layer. The cake will grow higher than the cake pan as you fill. Don’t worry if the edges of the cakes are a bit ragged; they will be trimmed before coating the outside of the cake. Just make sure the cake layers are evenly stacked. It’s difficult to move a layer once it has been placed on the filling. If the butterscotch filling becomes too thick to pour easily, heat on low. Do not top the last cake layer with butterscotch. Chill the cake for at least 1 hour; it must be completely chilled to trim the edges.
Place an 8-inch circle of parchment on top of the cake. Carefully invert the cake onto a cake cooling rack. Remove the pan and lift off the plastic wrap. Hold a long sharp knife against the side of the cake. Trim off about 1/4 of an inch evenly all around, making sure you are not tilting the blade. The size should be uniform, not wider at the bottom than the top.
Gently reheat the butterscotch and pour over the top and sides of the cake. Let stand until the coating is firm. Slide a metal spatula under the cake and place on a serving platter. Keep chilled, but serve at room temperature. This cake is best if made a day ahead, and keeps beautifully for 5 days.
