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ANNA TASCA LANZA explains how to make this national dish of Sicily, which is eaten as street food on the way to work, or just to fill a hole. They come in different shapes and with different fillings, but the classic version is round like a little orange, as shown here.
Arancine, or rice balls, are street snacks which are very popular with Sicilian families. We all make them. Saffron gives the traditional flavour and colour. It was only in medieval times that saffron spread through the cuisines of the Mediterranean countries, leaving indelible traces everywhere - in Spain with paella, in France with bouillabaisse, and in Italy with risotto alla Milanese, to mention a few. Had it not grown wild in Sicily, I think there would not be so many uses for saffron in our kitchen. The only place in Italy where saffron is cultivated commercially is in the hills of the province of Aquila. It has been cultivated there since the fifteenth century, and is said to be the best in the world. ATL
Makes 8-12
FOR THE FILLING:
280g (10 oz) chopped meat, half beef and half pork
1 carrot, peeled and diced
1 celery stalk, diced
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
450m1 (16f1 oz) (2 cups) thin tomato sauce
1 tablespoon estratto or sun-dried tomato paste
FOR THE RISOTTO:
1 small onion
15g (1/2 oz) (1 tablespoon) butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
450g (1 lb) risotto rice (Arborio or Carnaroli)
1 litre (1 3/4 pints) (4 cups) water
2 stock (bouillon) cubes
4 threads or ‘4 teaspoon powdered saffron
2 heaped tablespoons grated Parmesan
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE BATTER:
2 tablespoons plain (all-purpose) flour
120m1 (4f1 oz) (1/2 cup water
2 eggs pinch of salt plenty of dried breadcrumbs
vegetable oil, for deep frying tomato sauce, for serving (optional)
Make the filling one day ahead, so that it thickens and will be easier to use. Saute the meat, carrot, celery, and onion in olive oil until browned. Add the tomato sauce and the tomato paste. Cook over low heat for about 30 minutes, or until the sauce is thick. Cool and refrigerate.
To make the risotto, sauté the onion in the butter and olive oil, add the rice and water, stir, and put the lid on. As soon as it comes to a boil, add the stock cubes and the saffron. It is most important that the risotto becomes golden with saffron. Stir again, and when it comes back to the boil, stir again, then turn off the heat and cover. Wait for 20 minutes, and the rice will be done. Add the Parmesan, salt, and pepper, stir and pour out on to a platter. Spread out and wait for it to cool.
Now make the batter, this is important because it is what prevents the arancine from falling apart when you deep-fry them. Mix the flour with the water in a large flat dish with high sides, until there are no lumps. Add the eggs, one at a time, and combine well, using a whisk. Stir in the salt. Prepare a platter with plenty of breadcrumbs. Put a bowl of cold water next to you, to wet your hands now and then - this will help the rice stick together.
To assemble the rice balls, wet your hands in the cold water and fill the palm of 1 hand with a tablespoonful of rice. Cup your hand and make a hole in the middle, pushing the rice to the same thickness all around. Fill the hole with 1 tablespoon of stuffing and close your hand, enclosing the meat sauce with the rice. Add more if you need to make the ball round. Keep the hand with which you are spreading the rice wet. The ball should be no bigger than a small orange.
As you make them, lay the arancine side by side in the batter, and when all are ready, coat them, one by one, compacting them with your hands. Coat them with the breadcrumbs, pat them thoroughly with your hands and put them on a tray.
Heat the vegetable oil in a very large frying pan. Drop in a little ball of batter coated with breadcrumbs to test the temperature. This will sizzle when the oil is hot enough. Slip in the arancine so they sir with the oil reaching three-quarters of the way up the ball. With a slotted spoon, sprinkle oil on top of the arancine turning one now and then to see if it is golden. Brown on the other side. Remove them and lay on absorbent paper Eat warm with tomato sauce on the side, if you like.
