Nowadays, everyone who entertains is looking for outstanding casual fare that will allow them to spend more time with their guests. Dishes must be quick and easy to prepare (or able to be made ahead) and filled with the purest ingredients for optimum flavor. The Best of Gourmet, Featuring the Flavors of Thailand is filled with twenty-eight such menus-most are very relaxed, all are absolutely delicious.
Referred to in Italy as pastiera napoletana, this lattice-crusted dessert is like a cheesecake, with chewy wheat berries suspended inside. A delicate whiff of orange-flower water lends it a subtle hint of spring.
Serves 8 TO 10 (dessert)
Active time: 1 1/4 hours
Start to finish: 13 1/2 hours (includes soaking and chilling)
FOR FILLING:
1/2 cup hulled soft wheat berries (1/4 lb)
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted buffer, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh orange zest
1 lb ricotta (preferably fresh; 2 cups)
4 large eggs at room temperature, lightly beaten
2/3 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons orange-flower water
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup finely chopped candied citron (3 oz)
1/2 cup finely chopped candied orange peel (3 oz)
FOR PASTRY DOUGH:
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened
1 cup confectioners sugar
1 whole large egg
2 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons orange-flower water
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
a 9-to 9 1/2-inch (24-cm) springform pan
GARNISH:
confectioners sugar
SOAK WHEAT BERRIES FOR FILLING: Cover wheat berries with cold water in a bowl, then soak, covered and chilled, at least 8 hours. Drain in a sieve and rinse.
MAKE DOUGH WHILE WHEAT BERRIES SOAK: Whisk together flour, cinnamon, and salt in a bowl.
Beat together butter and 1 cup confectioners sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in whole egg, yolks, and 2 teaspoons orange-flower water until smooth. Reduce speed to low, then add flour mixture and mix until incorporated. Gather dough into a ball (it will be soft) and quarter. Form one quarter of dough into a 3 inch disk, form remaining three quarters of dough into a 6 disk. Chill disks, wrapped in plastic wrap, until firm, at least 1 hour.
FINISH MAKING FILLING: Cover soaked wheat berries with cold water by 2 inches in a 2-quart saucepan and simmer, covered, until wheat berries are tender, about 30 minutes. Drain in sieve, then transfer to a bowl and stir in butter and zest. Cool completely, about 15 minutes.
Stir together ricotta, eggs, sugar, 2 tablespoons orange-flower water, cinnamon, candied citron, and candied orange peel in a large bowl, then stir in wheat-berry mixture.
ASSEMBLE AND BAKE CAKE: Put oven rack in lower third of oven and preheat oven to 350 degress F.
Roll out larger disk of dough into a 14-inch round on a well-floured surface with a floured rolling pin. Fit dough into ungreased springform pan, pressing dough all the way upside to rim of pan (dough is very tender and will crack; patch any cracks). Chill until cold, about 20 minutes.
Roll out remaining dough into a 10-inch round on well-floured surface with floured rolling pin and transfer to a baking sheet. Cut dough into 1/2-inch-wide strips with a fluted pastry wheel or a sharp knife.
Spoon filling into chilled piecrust (filling will not reach top).
Arrange 5 dough strips parallel to each other on filling 1-inch apart), pressing ends of strips into crust. (Patch together any cracks in strips; if dough becomes too soft to handle, chill until firmer.) Arrange another 5 strips diagonally over them to form a lattice. Fold edge of crust over ends of lattice strips, pressing to seal.
Bake until pastry is golden and filling is puffed and set, about 1 to 1 1/4 hours. Transfer in pan to a rack and cool 10 minutes. Run a thin knife around edge of cake and remove side of pan. Cool cake cnmpletely on rack, about 2 hours.
COOKS NOTES: - Dough can be chilled up to 1 day. Bring to room temperature before rolling out.
- Cake can be baked 1 day ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature before serving if desired.
