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Title:
Recipe: *Real* Cream Pie
Board:
From:
Hobbs 7-30-1999
To:
 MSG ID: 0042184

Bob: I found this on the web. Hope it is what you are wanting.
_______________________________________________________

"In search of real cream pie"

By CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL

One of my neighbors, Jean, inherited a recipe from her
mother, Dorothy, which in turn came from her aunt, Nellie
Newton. It is called cream pie and is made from fresh
cream from a Jersey cow, sugar, nutmeg and one egg.
This is something quite apart from a custard pie, which
usually has one egg per cup of milk or cream or the
typical American diner cream pie which is thickened with
cornstarch and topped with whipped cream. This is a real
cream pie: one quart of heavy cream baked with just one
egg, one tablespoon flour and one cup of sugar. Unlike
its more heavyhanded cousins, this is a delicate dessert
with firm, clean slices - modest, spare and unique.

This recipe is made at Thanksgiving and Christmas, and
Jean has regaled me over the years with the
uncertainties of this dessert. Whether the cream would
set up properly was always a bit chancey, the crust was
usually soggy, and if the mixture bubbled during baking,
the texture would toughen and the flavor would change,
tasting a bit like evaporated milk. I solved the crust
problem by prebaking my pie shell and preheating the
filling, which I do for all my custard pies. Even after a
long spell in the oven, the crust was crisp. The bigger
problem was to create a foolproof recipe, one that would
always set up properly. Having tested a variety of baking
temperatures, I found that the trick is to use a very low
oven and a very long baking time. This produces a
delicate, light custard, rich from the intense flavor of the
Jersey cream. Even when I started out with a higher
temperature for even 10 minutes, the cream would
bubble and froth and the pie was ruined. After a dozen
pies, I found that 250 degrees was best, with a whopping
oven time of 5 1/2 hours. I also discovered that adding
an additional tablespoon of flour and one more egg made
this a foolproof recipe, the custard always setting up
properly. The original recipe was unpredictable. I also
reduced the sugar to 3/4 cup which allowed the natural
flavor of the cream to come through.

You will note that this recipe is simple with no vanilla or
other flavoring ingredients other than cream, sugar and
nutmeg. This is a simple pie and, as Jean emphatically
states, it should stay that way. Jean makes it with fresh
Jersey cream, which of course is more flavorful than a pie
made with ultra-pasteurized cream from a large dairy,
although the latter still produces a very good pie. If you
can, try to find an organic brand of cream, which I find
has the most flavor. The good news is that supermarket
cream is less rich, which produces a less cloying dessert.

New England cream pie

Make sure that you use a very deep pie plate in order to
accommodate the full quart of cream.

For the pie shell:

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, left in the freezer for
30 minutes
3 tablespoons shortening (Crisco) put in the freezer
for 30 minutes
3 to 4 tablespoons ice water

For the filling
2 tablespoons flour
3/4 cup sugar
1 quart heavy cream, non-ultra pasteurized preferred
2 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Making the pie shell

1. Mix flour, salt and sugar in a food processor fitted with
the steel blade. Scatter butter pieces over the flour
mixture, tossing to coat butter with a little of the flour.
Cut butter into flour with 5 one-second pulses. Add
shortening and continue cutting in until flour is pale
yellow and resembles coarse cornmeal, about 4 more
one-second pulses. Turn mixture into a medium bowl.
Sprinkle 3 tablespoons of water over the mixture. With
blade of a rubber spatula, use a folding motion to mix,
then press down on dough with the broad side of the
spatula until dough sticks together, adding up to 1
tablespoon more water if dough will not come together.
Shape dough into a ball with your hands, then flatten
into a 4-inch wide disc. Dust lightly with flour, wrap in
plastic and refrigerate for 30 minutes before rolling.

2. If dough has spent more than one hour in the
refrigerator, let it warm up a few minutes on the counter
before proceeding. Roll out dough and place into an
9-inch deep dish pie pan. Push dough gently down the
sides of the pan. Trim dough around edge of pan leaving
a 1/2-inch border. Fold excess dough underneath edge
and shape edge using a fork or fingers (see steps page
00). Place in refrigerator for at least 40 minutes. (If you
are not experienced with pie dough, I recommend that
the dough be refrigerated overnight. This will allow time
for the dough to properly hydrate, making it easier to roll
out and prebake.) Place in freezer for 20 minutes. Heat
oven to 375 degrees. Remove from freezer and fit a
double thickness of heavy-duty aluminum foil (the
extra-wide rolls are best; if the foil is too narrow, use
two sheets) over shell, pressing foil carefully into sides
of pie plate and against the sides. Add pie weights or
dried beans, enough to generously cover bottom of pie
plate. Pile up the weights around the sides of the shell to
help hold them in place.

3. Bake on lower rack for about 20 minutes or until sides
of pie shell are set. (They should not be moist and
should be firm.) Remove foil and bake another 7 minutes.

Baking the pie

4. While crust is baking, gently whisk together the first 3
filling ingredients in a heavy saucepan and then heat,
stirring frequently, until mixture begins to steam.
Remove from heat. Whisk the eggs in an 8-cup Pyrex
measuring cup or any other large heatproof pitcher.

5. When the pie shell is almost ready, whisk 1/2 cup of
the heated cream mixture into the eggs and then whisk
in the remaining hot cream. Open the oven door and set
the a timer to 3 minutes. With the oven rack pulled a
third of the way out, pour in the cream mixture and very
gently slide rack back into place. Leave oven door open
just a crack until the timer goes off. (The door will have
been open for a total of 3 minutes.) Close oven door and
bake for 5 1/2 hours. (The top will be a caramel color and
when jiggled, the cream will still be wobbly.) Turn off
oven and let pie bake an additional 1 1/2 hours. Remove
from oven, sprinkle top with freshly grated nutmeg, and
cool on a wire rack for 2 hours. (The pie will still not be
completely set at this point.) Chill in the refrigerator until
set. This pie is best served either cold or cool in small
slices. It goes well with strong coffee.



Replies:
  cream pie
  Bob - 7-30-1999
 
MSG ID: 0042172
  1 ISO: What kind do you want Bob??
    Pat/AR - 7-30-1999
   
MSG ID: 0042180
2 Recipe: *Real* Cream Pie
    Hobbs - 7-30-1999
   
MSG ID: 0042184
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