Ciabatta Sponge:
Makes about 3 1/2 cups

Sponge can be refrigerated for one week or frozen for up to three months. Use it to make Ciabatta and Peasant Bread.

1 1/2 cups warm water (100° to 110°)
1/2 teaspoon active dry yeast
3 1/2 cups bread flour

1. In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine 1/4 cup warm water and yeast. Let stand until yeast is creamy, about 10 minutes. Add remaining water and flour; mix on low speed, 2 minutes. It will be the consistency of a wet dough.

2. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover; let stand at room temperature for 24 hours. Bring to room temperature before using.

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CIABATTA
Makes 3 loaves

This Italian bread is good cut into long slices or split open for sandwiches.

1 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water (100 degrees F to 110)
5 teaspoons active dry yeast
3 cups Sponge pulled into small pieces
3 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons bread flour, plus more for dusting
2 tablespoons nonfat powdered milk
1 tablespoon salt
Canola oil for bowl

1. In an electric mixer, combine 1 cup water and yeast. Let stand until yeast is creamy, about 10 minutes. Add remaining water and sponge, and mix, using paddle attachment, on low speed until combined, about 2 minutes.

2. In a medium bowl, combine flour, powdered milk, and salt; add to yeast mixture, and mix on low speed for 1 minute. Change to dough hook, and mix on medium-low speed until dough is smooth and sticks to fingers slightly when squeezed, about 8 minutes. Or knead by hand, 15 or 20 minutes.

3. Transfer dough to a floured surface, and knead four or five turns into a ball. Place dough, smooth side up, in a lightly oiled bowl, and cover with plastic wrap; let rise in a warm place until dough has doubled in bulk and is slightly blistered and satiny, about 1 hour.

4. Punch dough down, and fold over onto itself four or five times. Turn folded side face down in the bowl. Cover, and let rise again in a warm place until doubled in bulk and satiny, about 50 minutes.

5. Turn dough onto a floured surface, flour the top, and cut into three pieces.

6. Line three baking sheets with parchment; flour generously. Transfer a piece of dough to each baking sheet. Gently pull each piece into a rough rectangle (about 7-by-11 inches). Cover loosely with oiled plastic wrap; let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk and small air pockets appear, about 30 minutes.

7. Dimple the surface of the bread with your fingertips. Cover with plastic wrap, and let rise again for 30 minutes. Sprinkle with flour, and dimple again; cover, and let rise in a warm place for 30 minutes more. Thirty minutes before the rising is completed, place a baking stone, if using, in the lower third of the oven and a baking pan on the lowest shelf. Heat oven to 450 degrees F.

8. Slide loaves, along with parchment, onto baking stone. If not using a stone, cook on the parchment-lined baking sheets. Quickly pour 2 cups very hot water into the baking pan to create steam, and close the oven door. Bake until bread is golden brown and hollow sounding when tapped on the bottom, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before slicing.

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PEASANT BREAD
Makes 2 loaves

This recipe calls for bread flour; its higher gluten content makes a chewy bread. It is available in supermarkets and health food stores.

2 cups plus 1 tablespoon warm water (100 degrees F. to 110)
1 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
1 cup Sponge, pulled into small pieces
6 cups bread flour
1/2 cup white, light, or medium rye flour
1 tablespoon salt

1. In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine 1/4 cup water and yeast. Let stand until yeast is foamy, about 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup more water and sponge; mix on low speed using paddle, about 2 minutes. Add flours, salt, and remaining water; mix 1 minute more. Using dough hook, mix on medium-low speed, pulling dough from hook 2 or 3 times, until dough is soft and sticks to fingers when squeezed, about 8 minutes. Or knead by hand, 15 to 20 minutes.

2. On a floured surface, knead dough into a ball by hand, four or five turns. Place smooth side up in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap; let rise in a warm place until tripled in bulk, about 3 hours.

3. Turn dough onto floured surface. Flour top, and cut in half. Roll up one piece of dough lengthwise, flatten slightly, and roll lengthwise again. On an unfloured surface, cup your hands around the sides of the dough and move it in small, circular motions, until top of dough is rounded and bottom is smooth. Flour a piece of parchment, and place dough on it; cover loosely with oiled plastic wrap, then cover with a towel. Repeat process with second piece of dough. Let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 50 minutes. Thirty minutes before this final rise is completed, place a baking stone or baking sheet in the oven and an empty baking pan on the lowest shelf; heat oven to 450°.

4. Sprinkle dough with flour, and dimple the surface with your fingertips; let rise 10 minutes more. Using a baker’s peel or baking sheet, slide loaves and parchment onto the baking stone or baking sheet. Pour 2 cups very hot water into the heated baking pan to create steam. Bake until dark golden brown and hollow sounding when tapped on the bottom, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing.