Tori Nanban: Hot Noodles and Chicken in Broth.

To serve 6

14-ounce package futonage udon (wide noodles), or substitute 1 pound No. 2 spaghetti
5 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 whole 1/2 pound chicken breast or duck breast, skinned and boned
6 cups ichiban dashi (Basic soup stock)below
1 tablespoon Japanese all-purpose soy sauce
2 scallions, including at least 3 inches of the green stems, halved and slice thin lenghwise.

Prepare Ahead:

In a 3-4 quart pot, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Drop in the noodles, return to a boil and, stirring occasionally, cook uncovered for about 20 minutes, until the noodles are very soft. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the salt, cover the pan tightly, and turn off the heat. Let the noodles rest covered for 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Cut each boned chicken breast in half horizontally, then into strips about 1/4 inch wide by 2 inches long.

To Cook and Serve:

In a 2-3 quart saucepan, combine the dashi (soup stock), sugar, the remaining 2 1/2 teaspoons of salt and the soy sauce, stir and bring to a boil, uncovered. Add the noodles, return to a boil, and remove from the heat. With a slotted spoon, remove the noodles from the soup and divide them among 6 deep bowls.

Drop the strips of chicken and the scallions into the soup. Bring the soup to a boil again over high heat, boil for 2 minutes, then pour the contents of the pan over the noodles and serve at once.

ICHIBAN DASHI: Basic Soup Stock:

To make 2 1/2 quarts:

2 1/2 quarts cold water
3-inch square kombu (dried kelp), cut with a heavy knife from sheet of packaged kombu and washed under cold running water
1 cup preflaked katsuobushi (dried bonito)

Pour 2 1/2 quarts of cold water into a 4-6 quart pan and, over high heat, bring it to the boil. Drop in the kombu, let the water come just to the boil again, then immediately remove the kombu from the pan with tongs or a slotted spoon and set it aside. Stir the katsuobushi into the boiling water and turn off the heat.

Let the stock rest undisturbed for about 2 minutes, or until the katsuobushi sinks to the bottom of the pan, then skim any surface scum with a large spoon. Place a double thickness of cheesecloth or a clean cloth napkin in a sieve set over a large bowl, pour in the stock and let it drain through undisturbed. Remove the katsuobushi and set it aside.

The stock may now be used as the base for a soup or stew, or as acooking base. Although best if freshly prepared for each occasion, ichiban dashi can remain at room temperature up to 8 hours without appreciable loss of flavor. Or it can be cooled to room temperature, covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for as long as 2 days.