Pancake Tuesday

New Orleans throws a wild two-week party and Brazil does a national samba in the streets, but the British Isles celebrate Mardi Gras with understatement--and pancakes.

The Tuesday before Lent in the Christian calendar is a time to receive absolution of sins. So, traditionally, it's also the time to eat up any rich food in the house before entering the 40 days of Lenten abstinence, hence the Creole-French name Mardi Gras, or "Fat Tuesday."

Foods to avoid during Lent once included flour, fats, and eggs--the three main ingredients of pancakes. In the British Isles, pancakes are still eaten with the same gusto that New Orleans residents throw into parades and King Cake.

Before you go and do likewise with your favorite flapjacks, note that their pancakes are what Americans think of as crepes. Made rich with butter and egg, these thin pancakes are sprinkled with sugar and lemon juice, and eaten rolled. You could also have them with a dollop of jam or fresh fruit, but the traditional presentation is quite austere--and surprisingly delicious.

Celebrate Pancake Tuesday this year with tasty crepes, or put your own twist on a British tradition by whipping up a buttery stack of flapjacks.

Blueberry-Mascarpone Crepes
Recipe courtesy Emeril Lagasse, 2003

Recipe Summary
Yield: 4 servings
8 ounces mascarpone cheese
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
3 tablespoons sugar
2 large egg yolks
1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest
1 teaspoon fresh orange juice
1 teaspoon Grand Marnier liqueur
Pinch salt
12 crepes, recipe follows
1 pint blueberries
Blueberry Sauce, recipe follows
Confectioners' sugar, garnish

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Lightly grease a large glass baking dish.
In a medium bowl, beat together the mascarpone, cream cheese, sugar, egg yolks, zest, juice, Grand Marnier, and salt until smooth.

Place the crepes flat on a work surface. One at a time, spoon 2 tablespoons of the filling down the center, and top with a few fresh blueberries. Roll the sides of the crepe up and over the filling and place in the baking dish, seam side down. Bake until the filling is warmed through and slightly puffed, 10 minutes. Spoon the sauce over the crepes and return to the oven and hot, 2 to 4 minutes.

Remove and arrange 3 crepes on each of 4 dessert plates. Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve immediately.

Blueberry Sauce:
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 1/2 cups water
1/2 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier liqueur
1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest
1 3/4 cups blueberries, picked over and rinsed
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

In a small saucepan combine the sugar, water, orange juice, cornstarch, Grand Marnier, and orange zest, and stir well. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 1/2 cups of the blueberries and simmer the mixture, stirring occasionally, until the berries burst and the sauce thickens, about 5 minutes. Add the butter and remaining 1/4 cup of blueberries and stir until the butter is melted and the berries are warmed through, 1 minute. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm until ready to use.
Yield: 3 cups

Crepes:
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 large eggs, beaten
3/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons whole milk
1 tablespoon sugar
Pinch salt
6 teaspoons melted unsalted butter


Whisk together the flour, eggs, milk, sugar, salt, and 4 1/2 teaspoons of the butter to form a smooth, thin batter. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before proceeding.
Heat a heavy 6-inch skillet or crepe pan over medium-high heat. When hot, brush with a light coating of the remaining butter. Ladle about 1/4 cup of crepe batter into the pan, tilting the skillet to evenly coat the pan with batter. Cook until golden brown on the bottom and the top begins to look dry, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a spatula, carefully turn the crepe and cook on the second side just until the bottom colors slightly, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a plate and cover loosely to keep warm. Repeat with remaining batter.

Assemble as directed in Blueberry-Mascarpone Crepes recipe, and serve. (Or, make ahead and when cool, layer between sheets of waxed paper and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 days.)

Yield: 12 (6-inch) crepes