Olivata

3/4 lb. loose oil-cured olives, either with or without added herb and red pepper seasoning
1/4 to 1/3 cup full-flavored olive oil, plus more for topping
1-2 large cloves garlic, peeled and minced

Herbs to taste:
1/2 to 1 tsp. crumbled dried oregano
pinch or two of crumbled dried rosemary (or twice as much minced fresh rosemary);
or up to 2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil leaves,
or a combination of 1/2 to 1 tsp. crumbled dried thyme (or twice as much minced fresh thyme leaves)
and a pinch of hot red pepper flakes
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
A little strained fresh lemon juice, if needed Additional oil for topping the olivata

Pit the olives (most easily done by squeezing each between fingers and thumb). Combine the olives, 1/4 cup of the oil, the garlic, and your chosen herbs in a food processor or blender (or use a large mortar and pestle and pound the ingre-dients if you feel like getting physical). Turn the machine rapidly on and off repeatedly to chop the ingredients to a grainy puree, or pound away if you are wielding a pestle; don’t let it become too smooth. Taste the olivata and add more herbs, if needed, plus freshly ground pepper and a little lemon juice, if you think a touch of tartness is a good idea. (Bear in mind that the flavor of the mixture will develop further.) Add the remaining olive oil if the mix-ture needs it to become properly unctuous.

Pack the olivata firmly into a jar or crock and smooth the top. Cover the puree with a thin layer of olive oil, then cover the container tightly and refrigerate it. It will keep for months. Let the olivata come to room temperature before serving it. Spread on bread, crackers or use as a dip or sauce for pasta. Refrigerate leftovers, first adding a fresh topping of oil.

Variation:
Green Olivata… Substitute green olives, either Sicilian, Spanish, or Italian, for the black olives in the main recipe. As the herbal seasonings, use basil, thyme, and a little oregano plus a very little hot pepper. Optionally, include a handful of blanched almonds before pureeing everything together. Store as described for the black olivata. Serve at room temperature.