INDONESIAN CHICKEN SOUP

Indonesia's chicken soup is tailor-made to taste, with a freewheeling style that's uniquely hospitable - and distinctive.

Guests select the fillings for their own bowls, from an expansive array of readily available and quickly assembled ingredients: shredded chicken, transparent noodles, tender rice, crisp bean sprouts, fiery chilies, crunchy cabbage, even potato chips.

Then hot broth (soto) is ladled over all, warming the room-temperature fillings, which in turn fill the aromatic liquid with contrasting flavors and textures.

Here we offer two delicious versions of the chicken soup - the classic soto ayam is light and refreshing, and soto resah is spicier and creamier.

Each soup is truly a meal in a bowl. And the array of condiments gathered on a tray are party decorations in themselves. To complete an easily organized menu, start with vegetables to dip in a purchased peanut sauce and serve tropical fruit for dessert. Iced tea, fruit juice, or beer go down well with either soup.

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SOTO AYAM:
Makes 6 to 8 servings

This version of the classic Indonesian chicken soup comes from the Hyatt Regency in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. Up to 2 days ahead, cook, cover, and chill chicken in seasoned broth.

1/3 cup peeled garlic cloves
1 cup sliced shallots
1/4 cup salted, roasted macadamia nuts or blanched almonds
6 thin slices (the size of a quarter) fresh galangal or fresh ginger
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tablespoon salad oil
2 1/2 quarts fat-skimmed chicken broth
1 stalk (12 to 15 in.) fresh lemon grass or 3 strips (1/2 by 4 in.) lemon peel, yellow part only
1 1/2 pounds boned, skinned chicken breasts, rinsed
4 to 6 ounces dried bean thread noodles (saifun) Salt and pepper
3 cups finely shredded cabbage
3 cups bean sprouts, rinsed and drained
1 cup thinly sliced green onions, including tops 1 cup diced Roma tomatoes
1 cup chopped fresh cilantro
4 hard-cooked large eggs, shelled and cut into wedges
2 cups potato chips or shrimp chips (optional) 1/2 cup fried shallots (recipe follows)
Lime wedges
Chili sambal, Asian red chili paste, or minced fresh hot chilies

In a food processor, combine garlic, sliced shallots, macadamia nuts, galangal, and turmeric. Whirl mixture to a paste, scraping container sides as needed. (Or chop ingredients with a knife, then whirl in a blender to a paste.)

In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, stir the paste and the oil until mixture barely begins to brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in broth, cover, and bring to a boil.

Meanwhile, trim stem end and any tough leaves off lemon grass and pull off coarse outer layer. Crush stalk with the back of a knife, then cut into 3-inch pieces. Add to broth.

Add chicken breasts to broth. Cover, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low- and simmer until the breasts are no longer pink in center of thickest part (cut to test), 15 to 20 minutes.

Lift out chicken and let cool at least 10 minutes. Skim fat from broth. (Or if making ahead, cover and chill the broth and the chicken separately. Lift off and discard fat from the chilled broth.)

In a bowl, pour 5 cups hot water over bean thread noodles. Let stand until the noodles are tender to bite, about 5 minutes; drain. If desired, snip through noodles with scissors to make shorter strands.

Season broth with salt and pepper to taste. Return to a boil over high heat.

Tear the chicken into shreds. In individual small bowls, mound shredded chicken, bean thread noodles, cabbage, bean sprouts, green onions, tomatoes, cilantro, egg wedges, potato chips, fried shallots (recipe far right),lime wedges, and chili sambal. Pour hot broth into a tureen or pitcher.

Let guests place desired portions of the chicken, noodles, cabbage, bean sprouts, green onions, tomatoes, cilantro, and eggs in wide bowls. Ladle or pour hot broth into bowls. Sprinkle with potato chips and fried shallots. Add juice from lime wedges, chili sambal, and more salt and pepper to taste.

SOTO RESAH (Variation of previous recipe)
Makes 6 to 8 servings

Kasih, owner and chef of Lotus River Rafting and Guest House in Borobudur, Jawa Tengah, Indonesia, is famous for her spicy coconut milk soup. She offers fried chicken and potato patties; we've simplified with poached chicken and potato chips.

Follow recipe for Soto Ayam (preceding), but in step 1, add 1 teaspoon each ground cu-thin and ground coriander and 1/4 teaspoon each white pepper and ground nutmeg. Also, reduce chicken broth to 1 1/2 quarts and add 2 cans (14 oz. each) coconut milk. Instead of bean thread noodles, use 4 to 6 cups hot cooked rice.