THREE BISTRO SALADS
Source: Fresh from the Farmers' Market: Year-Round Recipes for the Pick of the Crop by Janet Kessel Fletcher

As I discovered in the months I spent in Paris after college, being nearly penniless in that city is no impediment to eating well. I soon found a collection of likeable working-class bistros whose daily menus fell within my budget. Invariably, the first course was a selection of simple vegetable salads in white bowls. Some were raw, like grated carrots with olive oil, thinly sliced fennel in vinaigrette or creamy celery root remolaude. Some were cooked, such as grated beets with garlic or vinegary potato salad with shallots and parsley.

In spring. I like to recreate these bistro salads with market vegetables, serving them with a bowl of Nicoise olives, a French baguette, and occasionally some sliced pate.

GRATED BEET SALAD:
1/4 pound beets (3 medium or 2 large)
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
1 small clove garlic, finely minced
salt

GRATED CARROT SALAD:
1/2 pound carrots
1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 small clove garlic, finely minced
2 teaspoons chopped fresh chives
salt

MARINATED FENNEL SALAD:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 shallot, minced
1/2 tablespoon minced Italian parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large or 2 small fennel bulbs

GRATED BEET SALAD:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. If beet greens are attached, remove all but 1/2 inch of the stems (so as not to pierce the beets) and reserve for another use. Put beets in a baking dish with 1/4 cup water. Cover and bake until a small knife slips in easily - about 50 minutes for medium beets. Cool slightly, then peel. Let cool completely. Grate the beets on the large-holed side of a four-sided grater. Transfer to a bowl. Stir in olive oil, wine vinegar. garlic and salt to taste. Taste and adjust seasoning.

GRATED CARROT SALAD:
Peel carrots; grate on the large-holed side of a four-sided grater. Transfer to a bowl and stir in olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, chives and salt to taste. Taste and adjust seasoning.

MARINATED FENNEL SALAD:
In a medium bowl, combine olive oil, lemon juice, shallot, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Whisk to blend.

Remove fennel stalks, if attached. Halve fennel bulb(s) lengthwise. Cut away core. If outer layer of bulb half seems tough or fibrous, remove It. Lay each half cut side down and slice crosswise as thinly as possible. Transfer sliced fennel to bowl with dressing and toss to coat. Taste and adjust seasoning. Let stand 30 minutes before serving.

Servings: 4