Chicken Liver Pate with Golden Raisins

In this recipe, inspired by French chef Michel Guerard, I substitute chestnut puree for most of the fat — 240 calories worth per serving of fatback and creme fraîche — to achieve nearly the same rich texture and marvelous flavors of the original. Unsweetened chestnut puree imported from France is available in cans. If you can't get the puree, you can start with 8 ounces whole chestnuts.

1 1/4 teaspoons unflavored gelatin
3/4 cup less 1 tablespoon whole milk
1/4 cup golden raisins
About 1/2 cup boiling water
3/4 cup (7 ounces) unsweetened chestnut puree
10 1/2 ounces chicken or duck livers, trimmed
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of ground allspice
4 large egg yolks
2 1/2 tablespoons Armagnac or cognac

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.

In a small saucepan, sprinkle the gelatin over 1/4 cup of the milk; set aside to soften. Place the raisins in a small bowl and pour the boiling water over to cover. Let soften for 5 minutes, then drain well and pat dry on paper towels.

In a food processor, process the chestnut puree, chicken livers, salt, pepper, and allspice until creamy. Add the egg yolks and Armagnac and process to blend.

Over low heat, heat the milk mixture until the gelatin is dissolved. Stir in the remaining milk and add to the liver mixture. Process for at least 1 minute, until perfectly smooth. Pour the mixture through a fine strainer set over a bowl, rubbing and stirring with a rubber spatula to force it through the strainer, leaving the filaments behind in the strainer. Stir in the raisins.

Pour the mixture into a 1-quart baking or soufflé dish. Place the dish in a larger baking pan and set on the center rack of the oven. Add enough boiling water to the pan to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Cover loosely with a piece of aluminum foil.

Bake until the pate is set, about 1 hour and 15 minutes; a thermometer inserted into the center of it should read 140 degrees F. Remove the dish from the water bath and allow to cool completely at room temperature.

Because the pate has so little fat, it will darken if exposed to the air for too long; gently press plastic wrap directly against the surface to prevent this. Refrigerate overnight, to chill completely.

Serve the cold pate on thin slices of toast. If you wish, you can pack the pate into small ramekins for individual servings.

IN ADVANCE:
You can prepare the pate up to 4 days ahead; wrap well and refrigerate.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups (10 servings)
Source: A New Way to Cook by Sally Schneider by Sally Schneider