PANINI: JUST PRESS TO IMPRESS

"Americans have become big fans of panini (`"little breads"'), those tempting Italian pressed sandwiches. Picture a good old grilled cheese (but without the grease), layered with sauteed vegetables or deli meats on country bread.

As with that South Florida favorite, the Cuban sandwich, the contrast between the crunchy exterior and the soft, gooey interior is a big part of the appeal. And like all things Italian, panini (panino is the singular) vary from region to region. In Bologna they might be made on rolls, while in Rome it probably would be focaccia.

Think beyond lunch: Tiny panini make delightful appetizers, while a filling of ricotta or cream cheese and jam or dried fruit turns them into a hearty breakfast.

Panini presses are hot kitchenware items, but you don't need one to make panini. A skillet, pancake grill or ridged grill pan (for grill marks) will do the job.

Here are tips:
- Buy crusty, unsliced artisan loaves with neutral flavors like wheat or white sourdough that won't clash or mask the flavors of the fillings.

- Limit your filling to four or five flavors. For richness, make at least one of them a meat or cheese.

- Less is more when it comes to filling volume, too. It should be thin enough so the halves of bread almost touch at the edges.

- Once the sandwich is filled, press it down with your palm before placing it on the grill or pan so it doesn't slide apart.

- Toast the sandwich over medium heat so the bread doesn't burn before the filling heats.

- If using a grill pan or skillet, weigh down the sandwich with a heavy smaller pan such as a cast-iron skillet. (Cover the bottom with foil if you wish.) If you don't have one heavy enough, pull a can or two from your pantry shelf and put inside the smaller pan."

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EGGPLANT-MOZZARELLA PANINIS

"I adapted this recipe from chef Andrea Curto Randazzo of Talula Restaurant in Miami Beach."

1 medium eggplant (about 1 pound), quartered lengthwise and cut into 1/2-inch slices
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs (parsley, basil, oregano and/or rosemary)
8 (1/2-inch thick) slices country-style bread
8 thin slices prosciutto de Parma
8 thin slices ripe tomato
2 cups loosely packed arugula or other slightly bitter salad greens
8 ounces thinly sliced fresh mozzarella
Aged balsamic vinegar

Heat a grill pan or skillet over high heat or an electric panini press on its highest setting.

Brush both sides of eggplant slices with olive oil and season with salt, pepper and herbs. Arrange eggplant on grill pan or skillet, and cook until dark grill marks appear, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn and cook second side 30 seconds. (With panini press, close lid, making sure it makes even contact with the eggplant, and cook 4 to 5 minutes.) Transfer eggplant to a warmed plate.

Brush one side of each bread slice with olive oil and place 4 of them oiled-side down on a work surface. Layer eggplant, prosciutto, tomato, arugula and mozzarella on the 4 slices, seasoning lightly with salt, pepper and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. Top with the remaining bread slices, oiled side up.

Reduce heat to medium, place 2 sandwiches on the pan, and weight them with a heavy smaller pan. (See story.) Cook until the outside is crisp and the filling is hot, about 3 minutes per side. (For panini press, reduce heat to 350 degrees F, close lid and cook until dark grill marks appear, 3 to 4 minutes.) Repeat with other sandwiches. Cut in half and serve at once.

Makes 4 servings

FILLING IDEAS:
- Ham, smoked Gouda and Bartlett pear with honey mustard.

- Prosciutto, mozzarella, sliced tomato (drained on a paper towel) and fresh basil.

- Portobello mushroom, red onion and zucchini marinated in vinaigrette, then grilled; layer with feta and basil.

- Turkey, crisp bacon, blue cheese and sun-dried tomatoes.

Carole Kotkin is manager of the Ocean Reef Club cooking school and co-author of Mmmmiami: Tempting Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere.

Source: Carole Kotkin - The Miami Herald, April 27, 2006