SEARED WHITE NECTARINES AND BURNT HONEY

"A great white nectarine is unforgettable-sweet, floral, with hints of burnt sugar, qualities that can be easily overpowered. A quick sear in a little butter heightens caramel notes, keeps raw flavors intact, and protects the fruit from discoloring, which means you can prepare this simple dessert ahead. Look for Snow Queens from Honey Crisp and Harvest Pride (labeled Stanwick there), Stanwicks from Summer Harvest, and Lovely Lolitas from Fitzgerald. These white nectarines aren't the prettiest girls at the dance, but they are the most fascinating. Fitzgerald's or Pritchett's white donut peaches and Tenerelli's late-season Indian Blood peaches are also delicious prepared this way. Too often, white stone fruits are sweet but uninteresting, so taste before you buy. Use a full-flavored honey, such as earthy buckwheat or molasses-like eucalyptus from Bee Canyon Ranch in Saugus."

2 tablespoons full-flavored honey, warmed
2 tablespoons water or dessert wine such as muscat
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
4 fresh bay leaves (optional)
4 ripe nectarines or peaches, halved and pitted
Boysenberries, blackberries, or raspberries

In a small bowl, stir together the honey and water. Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Film the pan with 1 teaspoon of the butter and add the bay leaves. When the butter sizzles and the bay leaves start to blister, add half of the fruit, cut side down. Cook until the cut surface is browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer the fruit, cut side up, and the bay leaves to a platter. Repeat with remaining fruit and 1 teaspoon butter.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and pour the honey mixture into the pan. Stir, scraping up any brown bits, and then simmer until deep brown, about 2 minutes.

To serve, divide the fruit among dessert plates, lightly drizzle the fruit with the honey, and then scatter the berries around the fruit.

How to Choose White Nectarines:
Look for burgundy-russet rather than pink tones to the blush and dusky gold skin tones. Some sugar cracking is fine.

Cook's Tip:
In autumn, sear buttery D'Anjou pears from Cirone Farms or Penryn Orchard. The trick to choosing a good pear lies in the orchard. "Pears should be picked firm and mature," Mike Cirone explains. "If left on the tree until ripe, they get grainy and pithy." Slightly underripe D'Anjous can be refrigerated several weeks, then ripened on the kitchen counter. When ready, the skin will have turned from green to light yellow, and the fruit will have a slight give. Consume ripe pears within a few days.

Makes 8 servings
Source: The Santa Monica Farmers' Market Cookbook by Amelia Saltsman