TRUCK-STOP CINNAMON ROLLS

1 tablespoon dried yeast
5 cups warm water
1/2 cup light or dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons salt
About 13 cups all-purpose flour, preferably unbleached, divided use
FOR THE FILLING:
1/4 cup vegetable oil
About 1 1/2 cups light brown sugar or granulated sugar
1/4 cup ground cinnamon

TO PREPARE THE SPONGE:
Dissolve the yeast in the water in a large bowl. Stir in 6 cups of flour, 1 cup at a time, always stirring in the same direction. Then stir for about another minute, in the same direction. Let the sponge rest for 2 hours, covered.

TO PREPARE THE DOUGH:
The sponge will be lively and will have grown. Gently stir it, then sprinkle on the sugar and salt and stir in. Add about 6 cups flour, a cup at a time, stirring and turning as a dough begins to form. When the dough becomes too difficult to turn with the spoon, turn it out onto a well-floured work surface. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes, incorporating more flour as needed, until smooth and elastic.

Place the dough in a large lightly oiled bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise until doubled in volume, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

TO SHAPE THE ROLLS:
Pull the dough away from the sides of the bowl and transfer to your work surface. Flatten it to a square about 24 inches across. Pour on the oil and rub it around to completely cover the surface of the dough.

Sprinkle on the sugar and then the cinnamon. Roll the dough into a jellyroll shape, then cut into 12 rounds.

Lightly grease a large baking sheet. Lay the cinnamon rolls on the baking sheet, placing them about a half-inch apart. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 30 minutes.

TO BAKE THE ROLLS:
Meanwhile, place a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Bake the rolls for 35 to 40 minutes, until they're a beautiful brown color.

Lift the rolls off the sheet and transfer to a rack to cool. To soften the crusty tops, cover loosely with a cotton cloth after 10 minutes.

Note: To make smaller rolls, slice the rolled-up dough thinner, into 18 rolls

Makes 12 large bready cinnamon rolls, about 2 inches tall and 4 to 5 inches across
From: Johnson's Corner, near Loveland
Source: HomeBaking: The Artful Mix of Flour and Tradition Around the World by Jeffrey Alford