RICOTTA

The next time you pass your supermarket's dairy case, look at the ricotta cheese and picture a misty morning over rolling hills. Hear tinkling bells punctuate the sound of bleating sheep. Smell the damp earth and the fresh scent of hay on the farm mingled with smoke from a wood fire. In Sicily last October, I encountered exactly this scene when I went to watch the Prinitere brothers turn the foamy milk from their herd of sheep into pecorino cheese. But the main attraction for me turned out to be the silky, smooth dairy byproduct of this process called ricotta. Ricotta, which means recooked, is made from whey left after the curds have been separated.

For Italians, ricotta is an ingredient commonly found in many dishes. As breakfast and as a dessert, Italians eat ricotta topped with honey or a sprinkling of sugar. Most Americans know ricotta as the creamy layer in lasagne, the pleasantly bland filling in ravioli and manicotti, and the rich body of cheesecake. Following the Italian example, you will also want to use it in pasta maritata, which is spaghetti topped with marinara sauce and a dollop of ricotta. This tomato-cheese sauce makes a delicious, satisfying meal in about the time it takes to cook the pasta.

Virtually all ricotta in Italy is made by skilled manual workers, using sheep's milk. Even though it's now being made in the United States, sheep's milk ricotta may still be hard to find. Your best bet may be a cheese department in a gourmet store or via mail-order. More common in the U.S. is commercially-produced ricotta made from cows milk. It is more moist, mild and sweet tasting than the Italian product, which tastes like fresh milk and is fluffy enough to cut with a knife. The reduced-fat or part-skim ricotta found in American supermarkets is often closer to the Italian version than whole milk varieties. For the best texture when cooking, avoid fat-free and "lite" ricotta made with fillers.

CANNOLI CREAM

Cannoli Cream is the filling for one of Sicilians' favorite desserts and a simple way of using ricotta. Serve Cannoli Cream in small cups, like a sublime pudding, or buy cannoli shells at any Italian bakery. This easy dessert keeps 2-3 days in the fridge and freezes nicely, too.

1 (15 oz.) container reduced-fat ricotta cheese
1 cup confectioner's sugar
2 Tbsp. chopped dark chocolate
1 Tbsp. raisins, coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp. golden raisins, chopped
1 tsp. finely minced orange zest
Cinnamon, for garnish
4 tsp. chopped shelled pistachios, for garnish (optional)

Using a wooden spoon, press the ricotta cheese through a fine sieve into a medium bowl, making the cheese as smooth as possible.

Mix in the chocolate, raisins, golden raisins, and orange zest.

Divide the cream among 4 dessert dishes. Sprinkle some cinnamon over each serving and top with the pistachios, if using. Cover the dishes with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour, up to 24 hours, before serving. If you freeze it for later, let the Cannoli Cream sit at room temperature for 15-20 minutes before serving.

Each of the 4 servings contains 285 calories and 10 grams of fat
Source: Dana Jacobi for the American Institute for Cancer Research