Café Pasqual's Barbacoa

NOTES:Katharine Kagel, owner-chef of Café Pasqual's in Santa Fe, mimics the rich flavor and tender texture of pit-cooked barbacoa (traditionally goat). Garnish tacos with minced cilantro, chopped onions, and salsa. If cooking meat up to 3 days ahead, chill airtight; freeze to store longer.
MAKES: About 10 cups

1 pound onions, peeled and diced
1 pound firm-ripe tomatoes, rinsed, cored, and chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
3 ounces fresh jalapeño chilies (about 4 total), rinsed, stemmed, seeded, and quartered lengthwise
2 dried bay leaves
1 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth
1/2 cup lime juice
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 teaspoons dried thyme
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried Mexican or regular oregano
About 1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon coarse-ground pepper
1 boned, tied beef chuck or boned pork shoulder or butt (4 to 5 lb.)

In a 9x13-inch pan, mix onions, tomatoes, garlic, jalapeños, bay leaves, chicken broth, lime juice, vinegar, thyme, cumin, oregano, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Rinse meat, place in pan, and turn to coat. Cover and chill at least 3 hours or up to 1 day, turning meat occasionally. Seal pan with foil.

Bake in a 300F oven until meat is tender enough to pull apart easily, 4 to 5 hours. Supporting with 2 slotted spoons, transfer meat to a platter. Pour pan juices through a strainer into a 12-inch frying pan or a 5 to 6 quart pan (discard bay leaves; reserve remaining vegetable mixture); skim and discard fat. Boil juices over high heat until reduced to 1 cup, 25 to 30 minutes.

When meat is cool enough to handle, in about 10 minutes, discard string. Use 2 forks or your fingers to pull meat into shreds; discard fat and connective tissue. Add meat and reserved vegetable mixture to pan with juices. Stir occasionally over medium heat until steaming, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt.