REAL CARAMEL ICE CREAM
Source: Food & Wine Collection; 1987
Makes about 1 quart

This is butterscotch for grown-ups, a homey sweet turned rich and tantalizing with the burnished edge of caramel. The taste is sophisticated, but the procedure is simple. Just be sure to allow an extra 10 or 15 uninterrupted minutes to prepare the caramel immediately after making the custard base, so that you can combine them while they are both still warm.

1 cup milk
2 1/2 cups heavy cream, divided use
1 1/4 cups sugar, divided use
pinch of salt
4 egg yolks
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

TO PREPARE THE CUSTARD:
In a heavy medium saucepan, combine the milk, 2 cups of the cream, l/2 cup of the sugar, and the salt. Cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is hot, 6 to 8 minutes.

In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks lightly. Gradually whisk in the hot cream in a thin stream. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over moderately low heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens enough to lightly coat the back of a spoon, 5 to 7 minutes. (Do not let the temperature exceed 180°.) Remove the custard from the heat and set aside.

TO PREPARE THE CARAMEL CREAM:
In a small heavy saucepan, combine the remaining 3/4 cup sugar with the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of water. Melt the sugar over moderately low heat, without stirring, brushing, any sugar crystals from the sides of the pan with a wet brush. Let the sugar boil undisturbed until the syrup begins to color, about 15 minutes. Continue boiling, swirling the pan frequently, until the caramel is a deep, rich amber, about 5 minutes longer. (Do not let the syrup darken, any further, or the caramel may develop a bitter, slightly burnt taste.)

Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 1/2 cup cream. Stir the caramel cream into the warm custard and mix thoroughly.

Strain the caramel custard into a metal bowl. Set the bowl in a basin of ice and water and let stand, stirring occasionally, until cooled to room temperature.

Stir in the vanilla. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or until very cold.

TO PREPARE THE ICE CREAM:
Pour the custard into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions.