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MIDWESTERN CHILI: AN AMERICAN CLASSIC
Compliments of The American Institute for Cancer Research

Makes 6 servings, each containing 451 calories and 9 grams of fat

Chili. Just saying the word conjures up images of cowboys around a campfire on the open Texas plain, and cooking fired by incendiary chile peppers. Pair it with "Cincinnati," however, and an urban view comes to mind, of Greek immigrants ladling a meaty mixture over spaghetti at chains of chili parlors named Skyline or Empress.

As chili gradually traveled east, a "San Antonio Chilley Stand" at the Colombian Exposition in Chicago in 1893 helped introduce this muscular dish to the Midwest. Its fans carried it on to St. Louis, New Orleans and Cincinnati.

In 1922, the Kiradjieff family capitalized on this local enthusiasm, offering what has become known as Cincinnati Chili, served over spaghetti, at their Empress chili parlor. Additional branches and competing establishments soon dotted the city. At these popular hangouts, locals still order "a bowl of plain," "a four-way" (chili on spaghetti, topped with cheese and onions), "a three-way" (subtract the onion), or "a five-way" (add beans).

I love the way the springy strands of fully cooked spaghetti (this is one time the pasta should not be al dente) soak up the juices of the chunky chili heaped on top. The combination makes this dish a unique blend of regional specialty and blissful comfort food.

Since the beans are simmered with the meat in this version, rather than being layered over the chili, I call it "a four and a half-way."

Cincinnati Chili

1 tbsp. canola oil
1 medium onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and finely chopped
8 oz. lean ground beef
1 tbsp. ground chili powder or to taste (see note)
1 tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder
2 tsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. dried oregano
1 15-oz. can kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 cup diced tomatoes (with their liquid)
1 cup salsa
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
12 oz. spaghetti
3 oz. shredded reduced-fat cheddar cheese
1/2 cup finely chopped onion (optional, for garnish)
crumbled soda crackers (optional)

In a Dutch oven or deep medium saucepan, liberally coated with cooking spray, heat oil over medium-high heat. Sauté onion, garlic and jalapeno until onion is translucent, about 4 minutes.

Add meat and cook, breaking it up with a wooden spoon until it no longer looks red, about 3 minutes. Stir in chili powder, cocoa, cumin and oregano. When seasonings are fragrant, in about 30 seconds, add beans, tomatoes and salsa. Simmer chili until liquid is reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, cook spaghetti according to package directions. When tender, drain and divide spaghetti among four wide, shallow soup bowls or dinner plates. Ladle a quarter of the chili over each serving. Sprinkle a quarter of the cheese over each serving. If desired, pass one bowl containing the chopped onion and another with soda crackers, and let people serve themselves.

Note: If possible, use a chili powder that does not contain garlic.

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FRANK HENDERSONVILLE, NC. - 6-23-2006
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