RICE AND PEA SOUP

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1/4 pound bacon (about 4 thick-cut strips), cut into 1/3-inch pieces
2 cups (1/2-inch-diced) leek
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 pound frozen peas (or 3 cups shucked fresh peas)
3/4 to 1 cup rice
4 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
1/2 cup freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving, and more for passing
Freshly ground black pepper

Pour the olive oil into a heavy pot and set over medium heat. Stir in the bacon pieces, and cook for several minutes to render the fat. When the bacon starts to crisp, stir in the leek (and fresh peas, if using). Cook, stirring frequently, until the leek is wilted and the bacon is caramelized, about 6 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 3 quarts water to a simmer. Pour into the pot with the leek and bacon, add the tablespoon salt, and stir well. Rapidly bring to a boil, then adjust the heat to maintain active bubbling, and cook for an hour or longer, to build flavor in the soup base. Cook covered or uncovered, to reduce the soup rapidly or slowly, to a consistency you prefer.

Stir in the frozen peas (if using). Return the soup to a bubbling simmer, and cook for 20 minutes before adding the rice. (If fresh peas are already cooking in the pot, stir in the rice after the an hour or so of cooking, when the volume has reduced.) Use 3/4 cup rice for a looser soup, or a full cup of rice for a denser one. Return the soup to the active simmer, taste, and stir in 1/2 teaspoon or more salt - remember that more rice needs more seasoning.

Cook the rice for 10 minutes or so, stirring occasionally, until the grains are cooked through but not mushy. Turn off the heat; stir in the parsley and grated cheese; season the soup with lots of freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately, passing more cheese and olive oil at the table.

Makes about 3 quarts; serves 8
Source: The Providence Journal, April 25, 2007