HOME-STYLE BITTER MELON (PAWAKKI KARI)

1 1/2 pounds (8 to 10) small bitter melons*
1 1/4 cups water
1/2 teaspoon tamarind concentrate
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons chana dal (split chickpeas)
4 to 6 dried chiles, such as cayennes or chiles de arbol, or fewer to taste, stemmed and broken into rough pieces
1 cup chopped yellow onion, or 10 to 12 pearl onions, peeled
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons dried, unsweetened flaked coconut
3 teaspoons light brown sugar or raw sugar
Chopped cilantro, for garnish

Rinse the melons and cut off the ends. Cut the melons in half lengthwise. Using a spoon, scoop out the seeds and chop into 1-inch pieces. You should have about 4 cups total. In a large bowl soak the melon in water for 30 minutes to remove the bitterness. Drain well and transfer to a saucepan. Add 1 cup of water, the tamarind concentrate, turmeric and salt. Bring the mixture to a boil. Cover and boil until melon is just tender and most of the water has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the chana dal and chiles and cook for a few seconds, stirring, until the chiles darken a shade and send up a slight wisp of smoke.

Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring regularly, until the onion starts to brown and the garlic is blotchy in places, about 5 minutes.

Add the coconut and cook, stirring until toasty, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Let cool and transfer the contents to a blender. Add the remaining 1/4 cup of water and blend to a smooth paste.

Transfer the paste to the saucepan containing the bitter melon. Add the sugar, cover, and cook over low heat until the flavors meld, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with 2 to 3 tablespoons of water if the curry starts to stick to the pan.

Transfer to a warm, deep dish and serve garnished with cilantro.

*Find bitter melon at large grocery stores and at Indian, Pakistani or Asian markets.

Serves 6 as a side dish
Source: Dance of Spices: Classic Indian Cooking for Today's Home Kitchen by Laxmi Hiremath