Return to the Pot Luck! Article Index

CULTIVATE A TASTE FOR THE BLUES

There is something enigmatic about blueberries. They are titillating, yet altogether comforting, and very American! They excite even the bleary-eyed at breakfast, when added to hot or cold cereal or used in muffins, biscuits, pancakes and waffles. They're a sure hit in pies and tarts, crumb cakes, shortcakes, and biscuit-covered cobblers; in fruit soups and fritters; and as sauces for custards and puddings. As jam and jelly, they're unsurpassed. Blueberries become luscious polka dots in a mixed fruit bowl, and they win fame as the topping on New York-style cheesecake, not to mention in New England's specialties such as blueberry sauce and thick cream.

In addition to their visual appeal, intense blue color, and sweet delectable flavor, blueberries are also a healthy and convenient food. They're a delicious way to get your vitamin C and fiber, and they require no pitting or peeling. Just rinse, eat and enjoy.

Even The Natives Had The BluesThe blueberry is a native American species with deep roots in America's history. By the time the Pilgrims arrived, the American Indians were already enjoying these juicy berries year round through very clever preservation techniques. They were dried in the sun, then added whole to soups, stews and meat; or crushed into a powder and rubbed into meatóperhaps the predecessor of today's trendy "spice rubs." The powder would also be combined with cornmeal, water and honey to make a pudding called Sautauthig. The Pilgrims learned to appreciate blueberries from the Indians, especially as it was the Indian's gift of blueberries which helped the new settlers make it through that first cold winter.

Blueberries also have a place in the annals of folk medicine. Their roots were brewed into a tea to help relax women during childbirth, their leaves steeped to make a blood purifier. Blueberry juice and syrup also cured coughs, according to tribal medicine men.

BLUEBERRY CULTIVATION COMES OF AGE

The blueberry is no youngster; botanists estimate it's been around for more than 13,000 years. However, it wasn't cultivated until the first quarter of this century.

Elizabeth White and Dr. Frederick V. Coville were the first to develop the hybrid for cultivated highbush blueberries by domesticating and improving wild highbush blueberry species. The result is a plump, juicy, sweet and easy-to-pick berry with color ranging from deep-purple blue to blue-black, highlighted by a silvery sheen called the "bloom."

Botanically speaking, the blueberry is part of a family that includes the flowering azalea, mountain laurel and heatheróall plants that favor acid soil, plenty of water and a cool season. Once growers learned how to increase soil acidity, they were able to grow cultivated blueberries in 35 states and two provinces. Among the major cultivated blueberry-producing regions are New Jersey in the East, Michigan and Indiana in the Mid West, and Oregon, Washington and British Columbia in the West. Blueberries are harvested in the South as well, with berries coming from North Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas and Texas.

HARVESTING THE BLUES

On average, cultivated blues represent more than half of all the blueberries produced in North America. Lowbush blues are also harvested, but mainly for use in processed foods.

Cultivated blueberries grow in clusters and don't all ripen at once. The berries at the bottom of the cluster can be ripe while the ones on top are still green. Fresh blueberries are picked by hand to gather the best quality fruit. Harvesting machines are also used to harvest blueberries, gently shaking each plant so only the ripe berries fall into the catching frame. Most of the machine-harvested berries are immediately frozen for use year round.

Although fresh blueberries are available nearly eight months of the year from producers across the U.S. and Canada, the peak season is from mid-June to mid-August, when the majority of all North American blues are harvested. The earliest harvest is in the southern states, and it progressively moves north and into Canada as the season continues.

After the fresh season is over, cultivated blueberries may still be enjoyed year round, as frozen berries and in processed foods.

THE CULTIVATED BLUEBERRY INDUSTRY

Total North American production of both lowbush and cultivated blueberries reached an estimated 330 million pounds in 1997. Cultivated blueberries accounted for over 55% of total production. Cultivated blueberry production has steadily increased over the years, from an average of nearly 50 million pounds in the early 1960's to an average of more than 170 million pounds in the mid 1990's.

Slightly less than half of all cultivated blueberries are shipped to the fresh market, while the balance of the berries are harvested to be frozen, pureed, concentrated, canned or dried, to be used in a wide range of food products, including yogurt, pastries, muffins, baby food, ice cream and cereals.

BLUEBERRIES:
THE GIFT OF HEALTH IN A SMALL PACKAGE

It's true. The best gifts do come in small packages. Who would have thought that something as tiny as a blueberry could offer a powerhouse of life-extending essentials? Recent studies are hailing blueberries as the reigning king of antioxidants, disease fighters that also help slow down the outward and inward effects of aging.

When tested for total antioxidant activity in studies at the USDA Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging at Tufts University, blueberries came up roses. They had the highest overall antioxidant score of some 40 fresh fruits, juices and vegetables tested. Concord grape juice is next on the list with about 2/3 the antioxidant activity of blueberries, followed by strawberries, kale and spinach.

Anthocyanins, the pigments that make blueberries blue, are thought to be the major contributor to the high antioxidant activity levels observed.

To illustrate blueberries' remarkable health potential, Dr. Ronald L. Prior, director of the research, explains that just 1/2 cup of blueberries can provide as much antioxidant power as 5 servings of other nutritious fruits and vegetables, such as peas, carrots, apples, squash and broccoli. "Of course," he adds, "these foods supply other essential nutrients, so variety is still the key to a healthful diet." To express it another way, the same 1/2 cup of blueberries packs the antioxidant punch of about 1,000 mg vitamin C, a vitamin well known for its antioxidant properties.

"This research is still in its infancy," says Dr. Prior. "The ultimate goal is to see if people are protected from chronic diseases by eating blueberries. The animal studies that are underway show very promising results. In the meantime," says Prior, "I'm eating blueberries every day."

Why is it that blueberries are just now being recognized for their remarkably high antioxidant activity? The answer lies in a sophisticated new technique for studying the antioxidant properties of food. "Instead of looking at vitamins and minerals one-by-one," says Dr. James Joseph, a member of the USDA research team, "we are measuring the antioxidant activity of the whole food with all its many components working together." The researchers believe that their method more closely mimics the way the human body utilizes food.

AMERICA'S BLUE-BLOODED BERRY

Blueberries have a cherished role in our culinary traditions, marking this involvement by appearing in some of the most unusually titled dishes. Blueberry Buckle, for example, is a succulent coffee cake with lots of blueberries and a streusel topping; Blueberry Gruntóso called because this biscuit-covered dessert starts to "grunt" when the skillet is covered; Blueberry Mushóa steamed pudding based on a traditional English Duff; Blueberry Flummery came from the Shakers who developed this soft, sweet dessert for their toothless elders; and let's not forget blueberry slumps, shrubs and plate cakes!

MAKE SURE YOU'RE GETTING THE HONEST BLUES

When buying packaged goods that call themselves "blueberry," such as waffles and pancakes, cereals and cookies, and muffin, cake, and cookie baking mixes, be sure to read the ingredient label closely. Some products don't contain any real blueberries at all, but rather artificially flavored and colored bits or apple pieces designed to simulate berries.