Recipe: Chorizo-Stuffed Ancho Chiles with Sweet-Sour Escabeche

CHORIZO-STUFFED ANCHO CHILES WITH SWEET-SOUR ESCABECHE (CHILIES ANCHOS RELLENOS EN ESCABECHE)


"I often wonder why such an unusual-sounding dish has such wide appeal, is it the tenderness of the marinated ancho against the meaty, comforting potato-chorizo filling and crunchy vegetable garnish? The warmth of the inside against the cool of the topping? The dulcet tanginess of the escabeche against the dry-chile robustness of the ancho? I suppose it's this unexpected mix in perfect balance.

It was nine years ago now that Priscila Franco Satkoff, a co-worker at Frontera Grill, explained to me her family's delicious version of this Central Mexico specialty. Because all the parts can be prepared well in advance, this is a perfect party dish. It looks as stunning as a first course or light main dish as it does on a buffet-size platter."

FOR THE ESCABECHE:
1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch dice
1/4 cup olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice, preferably coarsely ground
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1 small cone (about 1 ounce) piloncillo (Mexican unrefined sugar) OR 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus a little more if needed
FOR THE CHILES AND FILLING:
6 good-size, unblemished, dried ancho chile peppers with stems intact
4 medium-small boiling potatoes, cut into 3/8-inch cubes
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
8 ounces (1 cup) chorizo sausage, casing removed
Chopped or sprigs of cilantro, for garnish

TO MAKE THE ESCABECHE:
Place the carrot into a large (10- to 12-inch) skillet, drizzle on the olive oil, cover and set over medium heat. Stir from time to time as the carrot cooks until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, allspice, bay, vinegar, 3/4 cup water and piloncillo, bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar, remove from the heat and add the onion and salt. Stir well and let cool. The flavors will improve if made a day ahead.

TO PREPARE THE CHILES:
Heat an ungreased griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat and toast the whole chiles one at a time, pressing them fiat for 10 to 20 seconds with a spatula until they become very aromatic, then flipping them and pressing down to lightly toast the other side.

Slip the chiles into escabeche, spooning the vegetables on top; let soak 30 minutes.

Remove the chiles from the escabeche, leaving behind as much liquid as possible, and, using a small knife, make a slit in the side of each one from stem to point. Now, with your fingers, carefully scrape out all the seeds that are clinging to the seed pod and attached to the veins. Set the chiles aside, covered. Reserve the escabeche and vegetables.

TO MAKE THE CHORIZO FILLING:
Boil the potatoes in salted water in a small saucepan, until tender, about 10 minutes; drain. Heat the oil in a large (10- to 12-inch), heavy skillet over medium-low, add the chorizo and cook, stirring to break up any clumps, until thoroughly done, about 10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to scoop it out, leaving behind as much fat as possible. Pour off all but a thin coating of the fat and raise the temperature to medium.

Add the potatoes and fry, stirring and scraping the pan regularly, until well browned (they'll soften and mash up a bit), about 15 minutes. Add the chorizo and heat through. Taste and season with salt if necessary.

TO SERVE:
Just before serving, spoon about 1/3 cup of the warm potato-chorizo filling into each chile, press and mold them into a plump shape and set on individual serving plates. Spoon a portion of the escabeche and vegetables over each chile, garnish with cilantro and they're ready to serve.

ADVANCE PREPARATION (optional):
The escabeche and filling can be made and refrigerated several days in advance. Marinate chiles up to several hours ahead; stuff and serve.

VARIATION:

VEGETARIAN STUFFED ANCHOS:
In a large skillet filmed with oil, brown a sliced onion. Add 1 large diced tomato and cook until thick and reduced; stir in the potatoes and 1 cup cooked or canned garbanzos and cook, stirring, until everything comes together.

Serves 6 as an appetizer
Source: Rick Bayless's Mexican Kitchen by Rick Bayless