Recipe: Everlasting Refrigerator Rolls (potato rolls, makes 3 dozen)

EVERLASTING REFRIGERATOR ROLLS

"The dough for everlasting rolls will keep in the refrigerator for a week. This basic yeasted bread dough is made from a potato starter, one that was once beloved all over the region for its soft and fluffy texture, slightly sweet and sour flavor, and endless versatility. You can use this dough as the base for many other breads, including cinnamon rolls and the less widely known butter rolls, a specialty of the northern reaches of Mississippi, gilded with butter and sugar."

1 large white potato, peeled and cut into large chunks
2/3 cup shortening
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2/3 cup sugar
2 eggs, beaten
1 (1/4 ounce) packet active dry yeast or 1 (1/2 ounce) yeast cake
1 cup milk
6 to 8 cups sifted all-purpose flour
Melted butter, for brushing

Cook the potato in boiling, salted water in a small saucepan until tender but not waterlogged, 10 to 15 minutes. Measure out 1/2 cup of the cooking water and set it aside. Drain the potato in a colander and transfer to a small bowl and mash until smooth.

Transfer 1 cup of the mashed potato into a large bowl. (Discard or eat the rest.) While the potato is still warm, stir in the shortening, salt and sugar. Add the eggs and beat vigorously until the mixture is smooth and creamy.

Gently reheat the reserved 1/2 cup potato cooking water to lukewarm (105 to 115 degrees F) and pour into a small bowl. Add the yeast and stir until it dissolves. Set aside to proof until the yeast looks foamy.

Meanwhile, heat the milk to scalding (180 degrees F), let it cool to lukewarm, and then stir it into the potato mixture. Stir in the yeast mixture.

Stir in enough flour to make a stiff dough. Dump it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead well until the dough is smooth. Return the dough to the bowl and brush the top with melted butter. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to six days.

You can bake all of the rolls at once, or in batches, as needed.

ABOUT 90 MINUTES BEFORE BAKING:
Shape as much dough as you plan to bake into small rolls that are about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Place in a greased baking pan (such as a cake pan), leaving space between the rolls because they will double in size as they rise. Cover with a damp, lint-free towel or plastic wrap that has been lightly coated with nonstick cooking spay. Let rise in a warm place until they double in bulk.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Brush the tops of the rolls with melted butter.

Bake until nicely browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Brush again with melted butter and serve hot or at room temperature.

Carol Darden and Norma Jean Darden of New York, N.Y.

Makes about 3 dozen rolls
Source: The Southern Foodways Alliance Community Cookbook edited by Sara Roahen and John T. Edge