Recipe: Thai Crispy Chicken Wings with Three-Flavored Sauce

CRISPY WINGS WITH THREE-FLAVORED SAUCE
(pik kai thot sot sam rot)



"The so-called three-flavored sauce is one of the most versatile sauces in Thai cooking. Although it is usually served over fried fish, it can also be used in other ways. Grilled or pan-seared scallops, grilled or baked lobster tails, grilled jumbo shrimp, batter-fried fish, and even tempura-style vegetables are all amazing when anointed with three-flavored sauce. When I was a hungry, busy, cash-challenged student, this benevolent sauce saw me through. All I needed was a jar of it, a pot of rice, and whatever was on sale at the market - chicken wings, most of the time. I have always told people that once they have learned how to make this sour, sweet, and salty sauce, they can create many modern dishes with a traditional Thai flavor profile. I still stand by that. In this recipe, the three-flavored sauce is reduced until thicker and stickier than it usually is, then used to coat hot, crispy deep-fried chicken wings the moment they come out of the oil."

FOR THE WINGS:
1 1/2 pounds chicken wings, tips removed and separated into drummettes and flats
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1/2 cup rice flour or all-purpose flour
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

FOR THE THREE-FLAVORED SAUCE:
10 fresh bird's eye chiles, or 2 fresh Thai long chiles
5 large cloves garlic
1 large shallot, about 1 ounce
3 cilantro roots, or 1/4 cup chopped cilantro stems
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup packed grated palm sugar, or 1/3 cup packed light or dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup tamarind pulp, homemade or store-bought
1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish

To marinate the chicken, combine the chicken, oyster sauce, and fish sauce in a large bowl and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 to 5 hours or up to overnight.

To make the sauce, in a food processor, combine the chiles, garlic, shallot, and cilantro roots and pulse into a coarse paste with bits the size of a match head.

Heat the oil in a 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat Add the paste and fry just until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the palm sugar, granulated sugar, water, fish sauce, and tamarind pulp and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring often, until reduced to about 3/4 cup. This will take about 5 to 8 minutes.

Remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl large enough to hold the chicken. Let cool completely.

WHEN READY TO COOK THE CHICKEN:
Spread the flour on a plate. One at a time, coat the chicken pieces with the flour, shaking off the excess. Arrange the coated pieces, not touching, on a baking sheet and allow them to sit for 10 minutes. This resting period is important because it allows the coating to absorb the moisture on the chicken and form a crust, which will become very crunchy when the chicken is fried.

Line another baking sheet with paper towels and place it near the stove.

To fry the chicken, pour the oil to a depth of 3-inches into a wok Dutch oven, or deep fryer and heat to 300 degrees F. To test if the oil is ready without a thermometer, stick an unvarnished wooden chopstick into the oil; when the oil is hot enough, tiny bubbles will slowly rise from the tip of the chopstick If you see a steady stream of bubbles rise up rapidly, lower the heat a bit.

Add the chicken pieces (in batches if necessary, so as not to crowd the wok) to the hot oil and fry, turning the pieces as needed for even browning, until deep golden brown, about 20 to 25 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer the pieces to the towel-lined baking sheet .

Put the fried chicken into the sauce bowl and toss to coat evenly. Arrange the chicken on a large platter. Sprinkle the cilantro over the top, and serve immediately.

Makes 2-3 servings
Used by permission to Recipelink.com from Ten Speed Press
Source: Simple Thai Food by Leela Punyaratabandhu