Recipe: Gilbert's Bakery Cuban Sweet Rolls (Pan Suave)

CUBAN SWEET ROLLS (PAN SUAVE)
From Gilbert's Bakery in Miami

"Cuba's answer to challah, is 'pan suave', a soft, dense, semi-sweet egg bread that tastes great by itself and makes great French toast and sandwiches. In Miami, pan suave is usually enjoyed in the form of bullet-shaped rolls, which are used to make 'Media Noches' (midnight sandwiches). But you can also use the dough to make full size loaves and even braided loaves, like challah."

2 envelopes active dry yeast (2 1/4 teaspoons each) or 2 cakes compressed yeast (0.6 ounces each)
3/4 cup sugar, divided use
1 cup warm water, divided use
1/3 cup vegetable oil
2 large eggs, beaten, divided use
2 teaspoons salt plus salt for the egg glaze
4 to 5 cups or more bread flour (or all-purpose flour), as needed
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
1 tablespoon melted unsalted butter (optional)

Dissolve the yeast and 1 tablespoon of the sugar in 3 tablespoons of the water in a large mixing bowl. When the mixture is foamy (5 to 10 minutes), stir in the remaining water and sugar, the oil, and all but 1 tablespoon of the beaten eggs.

Beat the remaining 1 tablespoon egg with a pinch of salt to make an egg glaze. Set aside in the refrigerator.

Stir the 2 teaspoons salt and the flour, 1 cup at a time, into the liquid ingredients, to obtain a dough that is stiff enough to pull away from the sides of the bowl, but soft enough to knead. (The dough can also be mixed and kneaded in a mixer fitted with a dough hook or in a food processor fitted with a dough hook.)

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, 6 to 8 minutes, adding flour as necessary, to obtain a soft dough that is pliable but not sticky. It will be a little moister than regular bread dough. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in bulk, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

TO FORM THE ROLLS:
Punch down the dough. Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces. Roll each on the work surface with the palm of your hand to form a tube 5 inches long with tapered ends. Transfer the rolls to lightly greased baking sheets, leaving 3-inches between each. Cover the rolls with a dampened cotton dish towel and let it rise in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. (The rolls can be allowed to rise a lower temperature - even in the refrigerator - but the rising time will be 3 to 4 hours.)

TO BAKE:
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Brush the rolls with the reserved egg glaze and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Bake the rolls until golden brown and hollow sounding when lightly tapped, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove the rolls from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes. Brush the tops with melted butter if using. Serve warm or cool to room temperature on a wire rack.

Makes 12 (5-inch) rolls
Source: Miami Spice: The New Florida Cuisine by Steven Raichlen