Recipe(tried): Japanese cold soba noodles on a basket

ZARU SOBA (cold soba noodles on a basket tray)

This version of soba noodles is as simple as it gets. Served at room temperature or chilled, this is the perfect meal for a hot summer. The noodles are topped with crumbled nori, cubed tofu, green onions, and wasabi.

1 ten once package of dried soba noodles

DIPPING SAUCE

1 1/4 cups of dashi*
1/2 cup of shoyu
1/4 cup mirin
1 teaspoon sugar

CONDIMENTS

1 sheet nori seaweed (lightly toasted over the stove top flame
and then crumbled)
1/2 block of chilled tofu cut into small one inch cubes
4 tablespoons of finely diced green onions
1 tablespoon of wasabi paste

Ahead of time, mix and heat the dipping sauce ingredients in a small saucepan, remove and let cool (you can chill this if you like). Cook the dried soba noodles, then rinse them well in a colander using cold water, drain, then place in ice water, drain again. Serve the soba on a woven bamboo tray (zaru) meant for noodles or in small lacquer bowls. Place the cubed tofu on top, and garnish with the green onions, crumbled nori, and wasabi. Using hashi (chopsticks), dip the noodles into the cold dipping sauce.

cold soba noodles on a basket tray)

MAKING DASHI

Dashi is a stock made from konbu (kelp) and katsuo-bushi (dried bonito fish). Along with shoyu (soy sauce), dashi is used most frequently in Japanese cooking in everything from soups to simmered vegetable dishes. Dashi is the foundation for innumerable dishes.

Place two quarts of cold water in a large deep pot. Take about 20 inches of konbu/kelp (about 1 1/2 oz.), and carefully and thoroughly wipe the konbu with a clean moistened cloth (do not wash kombu as it removes the flavor). Place the konbu into the pot and slowly bring the water to just before the boiling point, regulate the heat so that the water never actually boils. By simmering the konbu in this way you are releasing it's flavor and once the kelp is tender (about fifteen minutes), remove the seaweed.

Add 3 cups of loose bonito flakes and turn off the heat. Once the flakes have sunk to the bottom of the pot (about a minute or two), strain the stock into another pot or receptacle using a colander filled with cheesecloth or a large coffee filter. The finished dashi should be a light golden color and free of any bonito flake particles. You can store dashi in the refrigerator for up to three days but it's best to use as soon as it's made.

COOKING NOODLES

Whether you're cooking soba (buckwheat), or udon (white flour) noodles... you'll want a deep pot and a colander (a large plastic strainer being the best). Fill the pot half way with water and bring to a rolling boil. Be sure to place the noodles in the pot only when the water is extremely hot. Stir occasionally to make sure the noodles don't stick to each other (you can add a little bit of cold water to the pot when it threatens to boil over).

Be sure not to over cook the noodles... they should never be soft and soggy but firm. Have the hot water running in your sink and place the colander in the basin... pour the pot of boiling noodles into the colander and allow hot water to run over the strainer full of noodles until the water runs clear. This is the most crucial part of making good noodles, if improperly washed the noodles will be starchy and sticky. Allow the noodles to drain and then serve in hot broth or with hot dipping sauce.

To make noodles that you will serve cold (a real treat in hot weather), rinse your noodles in cold water until the water runs clear, then place in ice water for a few minutes, rinse again, drain and serve with cold dipping sauce