Recipe: Fried Chicken with Tomato Gravy

FRIED CHICKEN WITH TOMATO GRAVY

1/2 cup kosher salt
2 quarts cold water
1 (3 1/2 pound) chicken, cut into 8 pieces
3 cups buttermilk
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup cornstarch
2 tablespoons potato starch (optional)
fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound lard or solid vegetable shortening (for frying)
4 ounces unsalted butter
4 ounces sliced bacon or unsliced country ham
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1 garlic clove, minced
3 cans (14 ounces each) diced tomatoes, drained
2 teaspoons dried thyme
2 cups heavy cream
1 1/2 cups milk
biscuits (for serving)

ABOUT 8 HOURS BEFORE COOKING:*
In a large bowl, dissolve the kosher salt in the cold water. Add the chicken, cover and refrigerate for 4 hours. Pour off the salt water, rinse the chicken and drain. Put the chicken in a bowl, add the buttermilk and turn the pieces to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 4 hours.

In a large, sturdy plastic bag, put the flour, cornstarch, potato starch, 1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and shake to combine. Set aside 1/2 cup of the flour mixture for the gravy.

Lift the chicken from the buttermilk, wiping off any excess liquid. Arrange the pieces on a wire rack and let dry for 5 minutes.

Add the chicken to the bag, a few pieces at a time, and shake to coat. Shake off any excess seasoned flour and return the chicken to the rack.

Meanwhile, in a large cast-iron skillet, melt the lard and butter. Add the bacon and cook over moderate heat until crisp, 5 to 6 minutes; reserve the bacon for another use. Add the chicken, in batches if necessary, and cook over moderate heat, turning, until golden, crisp and cooked through, about 30 minutes. Lower the heat if necessary. Transfer to a wire rack to drain.

Transfer 1/4 cup of the chicken cooking fat to a large saucepan and add the onion and garlic. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, 5 to 6 minutes.

Add the reserved 1/2 cup of seasoned flour and cook, whisking, for 2 minutes.

Add the tomatoes and thyme and stir constantly until blended. Whisk in the cream and milk until the sauce is smooth. Season with sea salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 10 minutes.

Transfer the fried chicken to a platter. Pour the tomato gravy into a gravy boat and serve with the chicken and biscuits on the side.

*TO MAKE AHEAD:
The chicken can marinate overnight in the buttermilk.

NOTES:
Watershed, in Decatur, Georgia, is a groovy restaurant, wine bar and tabletop shop owned by musician Emily Saliers of the Indigo Girls. When she's not on tour, she helps out at the restaurant. "Emily is always threatening to come cook in the kitchen, but it hasn't happened yet, thank goodness," says chef Scott Peacock, who turns out superb Southern dishes like crispy panfried chicken, one of Saliers's favorites. "She's excellent at bussing tables, though."

Servings: 4
Source: Food & Wine magazine, March 2000