Recipe: Rhode Island Red Chowder with Pork Cracklings (using fresh tomatoes and white wine)

RHODE ISLAND RED CHOWDER WITH PORK CRACKLINGS

"Here is how Boston chef William Poirer makes red chowder, and it is good enough to convert the most diehard white chowder fanatic."

16 large qauhogs (clams)* (2 cups chopped meat)
2 cups dry white wine
2 to 3 cups bottled clam broth (or fish stock) (or as needed)
1/4 lb salt pork
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch flat leaf (Italian) parsley
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 large potatoes
4 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped
1 tbsp tomato paste
salt and freshly ground black pepper (to taste)
ground cayenne pepper (to taste)

Scrub the qauhogs and place them in a large, covered pot with the wine. Steam them for 10 to 15 minutes or until the shells just open.

Shuck the quahogs and grind, using a meat grinder or food processor; set aside.

Strain the cooking liquid through damp cheesecloth - you should have 6 cups. If necessary, add clam broth or fish stock to make up the difference; set aside.

Finely dice the salt pork. Fry the salt pork slowly in a large pot over low heat to render the fat. Transfer the cracklings with a slotted spoon to a paper towel to drain.

For the bouquet garni, tie half of the parsley and the other herbs together into a bouquet garni. Finely chop the remaining parsley; set aside. Peel and dice the potatoes into a bowl of cold water to prevent them from browning.

TO MAKE THE CHOWDER:
Saute the onions, celery, garlic and bouquet garni in the rendered fat over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until soft but not browned.

Add the tomatoes and tomato paste, increase the heat to high, and cook for 1 minute.

Add the 6 cups of clam liquid and bring to a boil. Add the potatoes, reduce the heat, and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, or until tender.

TO SERVE:
Just before serving, stir in the quahog meat and salt and pepper and cayenne pepper to taste. Garnish the chowder with the chopped parsley and the salt pork cracklings and serve at once.

*A 1 inch thick to 2 1/2 inch long quahog is known as a littleneck, a 2 1/2 to 3 inch quahog is a cherrystone, and a 3 inch or larger quahog is a chowder.

Servings: 8
Adapted from source: Steven Raichlin, The Baltimore Sun; Sept 22, 1991