Recipe: New England Fish Chowder

NEW ENGLAND FISH CHOWDER

4 ounces meaty salt pork, rind removed and cut into 1/3-inch dice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 medium onions (14 ounces), cut into 3/4-inch dice
6 to 8 sprigs fresh summer savory or thyme, leaves removed and chopped
2 dried bay leaves
2 pounds Yukon Gold or other all-purpose potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/3-inch thick
5 cups fish stock, chicken stock or water
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 pounds skinless haddock or cod fillets, preferably more than 1 inch thick, pin bones removed
1 1/2 cups heavy cream (or up to 2 cups if desired)
FOR GARNISH:
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

Heat a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot over low heat and add diced salt pork. Once it has rendered a few tablespoons of fat, increase heat to medium and cook until pork is a crisp golden brown. Use a slotted spoon to transfer cracklings to a small ovenproof dish, leaving the fat in the pot, and reserve until later.

Add butter, onions, savory or thyme, and bay leaves to pot and saute, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, for about 8 minutes, until onions are softened but not browned.

Add potatoes and stock. If stock doesn't cover potatoes, add just enough water to cover them. Turn up heat and bring to a boil, cover, and cook potatoes vigorously for about 10 minutes, until they are soft on the outside but still firm in the center. If stock hasn't thickened slightly, smash a few potato slices against the side of the pot and cook for a minute or two longer to release their starch.

Reduce heat to low and season assertively with salt and pepper (you want to almost overseason the chowder at this point to avoid having to stir it much once the fish is added). Add fish fillets and cook over low heat for 5 minutes, then remove pot from heat and allow chowder to sit for 10 minutes (the fish will finish cooking during this time).

Gently stir in cream and taste for salt and pepper. If you are not serving the chowder within the hour, let it cool a bit, then refrigerate; cover chowder after it has chilled completely. Otherwise, let it sit for up to an hour at room temperature, allowing flavors to meld.

WHEN READY TO SERVE:
Reheat chowder over low heat; don't let it boil. Warm cracklings in a low oven (200 degrees) for a few minutes.

Use a slotted spoon to mound chunks of fish, onions and potatoes in center of large soup plates or shallow bowls, and ladle creamy broth around center. Scatter cracklings over individual servings and finish each with a sprinkling of chopped parsley and minced chives.

Serves 8 as a main course
Source: 50 Chowders by Jasper White