Recipe: Asparagus with Soft-Scrambled Eggs

Asparagus with Soft-Scrambled Eggs
Source: Fresh from the Farmers' Market: Year-Round Recipes for the Pick of the Crop by Janet Kessel Fletcher

Asparagus growers, like corn growers, say the best way to cook their vegetable is to put the water on to boil before you harvest. Asparagus quickly loses moisture and sugar after picking, so its flavor and texture arc compromised. If you don't grow your own, your next best option is to buy your asparagus at a farmers' market where it likely was picked the day before. And if your market has an egg vendor selling fresh-laid eggs, you're in luck. Asparagus and eggs enhance each other, whether it's a fried egg atop buttered asparagus; a soft-cooked egg cut open and used as a dipping sauce for asparagus tips; chopped eggs in the vinaigrette over boiled asparagus; or this combination of creamy soft-scrambled eggs over warm buttered tips. If you want to make the dish more dramatic, shave black truffle over each portion.

1 pound thin asparagus
4 large eggs
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon thinly sliced fresh chives

Preheat oven to warm. Holding an asparagus spear in both hands, bend it gently: it will break naturally at the point at which the spear becomes tough. Repeat with remaining spears. Set the tender ends aside with all the tips pointing in the same direction: discard the tough ends.

In a small bowl, beat eggs and cream together with a fork.

In a large skillet, bring an inch of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add asparagus, keeping all the tips pointing in the same direction. Boil until just tender, about 2 minutes. Lift asparagus out with tongs and transfer to a clean dish towel. Pat dry. Drain skillet, return the asparagus to the skillet and toss gently with 1 tablespoon butter and salt to taste, taking care to keep me tips pointed in the same direction. Transfer asparagus to a serving platter and place in oven to keep warm.

Melt remaining tablespoon butter in the top of a double boiler set over - not touching - barely simmering water. Add eggs and cook slowly, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula and scraping the sides of the bowl often. You want them to set in a creamy mass, without forming curds. When eggs begin to thicken and set, after 3 to 5 minutes, season with salt and pepper, When they are set but as soft and creamy as a thick bechamel sauce, stir in chives and remove from heat.

Immediately spoon the eggs over the middle of the asparagus spears and serve on warm plates.

Serves 4 as a first course, 2 as a lunch