Recipe: French Peas with Lettuce

French Peas with Lettuce
DISCOVERING FRESH GREEN PEAS
From the American Institute for Cancer Research

Most of the fruits and vegetables in supermarkets are hauled across the continent or flown in from the opposite side of the equator. They seem to be harvested as much from never-never land or the deep freeze as from real fields. No wonder our sense of the seasonal and local is rapidly disappearing.

Now, however, with spring's arrival, local strawberries - fragile, aromatic, and juice-laden - will soon renew the pleasure of food grown close to home. Tender corn from nearby fields follows, outmatching the tough-kerneled, commercially-grown super-hybrids that last for weeks after picking.

But before they are ready, give yourself an even earlier treat: fresh green peas. Their appearance in local gardens proves spring has progressed from the tentative days of pencil-thin asparagus to the sunny ones that produce an unceasing supply of lettuces, spinach and radishes.

If you cannot experience the vernal epiphany of fresh English peas, shelled, steamed and lightly buttered immediately after picking, buy a big bag of fresh, unshelled peas at the market. Although not as sweet or tender as those from your own plot, they still offer great pleasure.

Opening each crisp pod, slide your thumb under the tight row of peas tucked inside, listen to them tumble into the pot, and smell the green, earthy aroma as they steam. Watching them then flow onto a plate provides a thrill akin to that of the hunter-gatherer's pride. It is the thrill of self-sufficiency that accompanies eating food you have somehow participated in, bringing it from the earth to your mouth, even if you have not harvested it yourself.

Fortunately, the French, devoted to taking the best possible pleasure from every mouthful, know how to cook green peas at any stage of maturity. This recipe for Petits Pois la Fran aise compliments early peas likely to be found in supermarkets now.

French Peas with Lettuce

2 cups shelled fresh peas (about 2 lb. unshelled)*
12 pearl onions, peeled*
1 Tbsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
1 small head Boston lettuce
2 tsp. unsalted butter or soft margarine
1/3 cup water

In medium saucepan place peas and onions. Sprinkle in sugar and salt.

Remove outer leaves from lettuce. Cut head vertically in quarters so leaves remain attached at bottom. Place lettuce quarters on top of peas. Add butter or margarine and water.

Cook tightly covered until onions are tender when pierced with sharp, small knife, 10-12 minutes. Lettuce should be soft but not mushy.

Using a slotted spoon, divide vegetables among 4 plates. Serve immediately.

*Although using fresh peas is best, a 10-ounce package of frozen green peas can be substituted (not baby peas). To peel pearl onions, cut off tops and bottoms with a small, sharp knife. Remove the first layer of onion along with skin.

Makes 4 servings.

Per serving: 100 calories, 2 g. fat (1 g. saturated fat), 18 g. carbohydrate, 4 g. protein, 4 g. dietary fiber, 300 mg. sodium.