Recipe(tried): On Gazpacho and Esqueixada

ON GAZPACHO AND ESQUEIXADA

As I was responding to Joel's message, the other day, I realized how our real traditional cooks are mostly relegated to side road stands ( charming and cozy but informal and perhaps uninviting to the uninitiated ) but, you can hardly find their expertise and tradition in the new generation of chefs who own or work for the best restaurants in the island. These colorful traditional cooks still keep in their repertoire recipes that can be traced back to our ancestors.

It is extremely interesting and rewarding to follow the roots of a simple recipe, and to discover how and where it probably comes from. Different towns in the island, as it also happens in other countries, use different words to describe the same concept or idea. In food you can identify the coast by its seafood and fish dishes, and the center of the island for all those marvelous ways in which they transform pork and veal into dishes worthy of the best reviews in a Cordon Bleu School Examination.

In Spain, what is known as Gazpacho is a soup, a liquid salad which might be red or white depending on the place of origin. In Puerto Rico, it might be a soup, or, in the southern part of the island, a GAZPACHO is a delightful salad, which definitely has its roots in the Catalan "Esqueixada". Coleman Andrews in his book "Europe's Last Great Culinary Secret, Catalan Cuisine", described the Esqueixada as the Catalan seviche, since it is made of raw fish, cooked only by its marinade. Esqueixada comes from "tear"or "shred", and the salt cod used should always be shredded with the fingers.

Even though I know that American cooks are reluctant to try salt cod, I am including a succession of recipes which might tempt most palates. Enjoy!

ESQUEIXADA: Based on the recipe by Colman Andrews in his book. Serves 4 as the first course or a salad dish. 1 LB salt cod desalted (put the salt cod covered with water in the refrigerator for 24 hors, changing the water at least twice. You can add 1/2 cup of milk to the last change of water. Then, when ready to begin preparations, carefully drain of all residue of liquid), skinned, boned and finely shredded with your fingers. You can use salt cod fillets, which are boneless and delicious, and which I definitely prefer, but purist will frown on this alternative; 1 onion, sliced paper thin and separated in rings; 1/2 green bell pepper, seeded and finely diced; 1/2 red bell pepper, seeded and finely diced; 2 tomatoes, seeded and chopped; Extra Virgin Olive oil to taste; Balsamic Vinegar to taste; Ground pepper to taste and Pre-pitted Black or green olives.

Combine the salt cod , onion, peppers and tomatoes in a salad bowl and mix well. Dress with the oil and vinegar, then marinade for at least 24 hours or more, covered in a crystal bowl in the refrigerator. Then, you can add ground pepper to taste, and if necessary, a pinch of salt. Garnish with the olives and serve.

ESQUEIXADA:
Dianne Seed's in her book "Mediterranean Dishes", gives a similar version: 1lb salt cod; 1 onion thinly sliced; 3 TB olive oil; 1 TB sherry vinegar; freshly ground black pepper; 3 large red tomatoes; 2 green sweet peppers, de-seeded; 12 pitted black olives.

Soak the salt cod in cold water for 3 days, changing the water daily. Remove skin and bones, Dry the fish to remove any water and tear to shred with your fingers. Add the sliced onion to the shredded fish. Mix the oil and vinegar and pour over the fish and onion. Grind a little black pepper over and leave to cure for 3 hours. Chop the tomatoes. Cut the peppers into matchsticks, blanch in boiling water and cool. When ready to serve, stir the tomatoes and peppers into the fish and garnish with black olives.

GAZPACHO: this is the recipe, as it was prepared by my mother, with a few variations. I am sure that you will see the similarities.

12 Export Soda Crackers;3 large very red tomatoes; 1 1/2 lbs. salt cod fillets; 1 LB potatoes, peeled, boiled and cubed as for potato salad; 4 hard boiled eggs; 1 TB cocktail capers in brine, drained; 1 white onion in slices;1 red sweet pepper chopped; 1 green sweet pepper chopped; 1 cup olive oil; 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar (mami used white cider vinegar); 1/2 cup pimento stuffed olives chopped; 2 garlic cloves chopped, 1/2 cup cilantrillo (Chinese parsley) chopped, Salt and pepper to taste, 1 TB honey;1/2 cup slivered almonds and 1 cup petit pois Le Seur.

Soak the salt cod in water for 24 hours, frequently changing the water. Drain and shred with your fingers. In a clay escudilla or a big crystal bowl, begin by putting the soda crackers in the bottom. Then, mix in the order given all the solid ingredients and place them over the soda crackers. Mix the vinegar, oil and seasonings. Mix the marinade and moisten the salad without moving or mixing it. Cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours. To serve: Serve from the bottom, up. Can be used as a salad, first course or appetizer. A good idea if you want to serve it as a light salad, accompany it with boiled root vegetables and avocados. IT IS DELICIOUS.