Recipe: Speculaas (molded cookies)

SPECULAAS (MOLDED COOKIES)

"Traditional speculaas are much-loved spice cookies that are often prepared in carved wooden molds. They are a special favorite in Belgium and the Netherlands. Nearly identical cookies, called speculatius, are also found in Germany. Throughout the region, these cookies are associated with St. Nicholas Day, December 6, when St. Nicholas visits all good children as they sleep and leaves "good" youngsters a bowl or shoe full of cookies, candies, and other small treats.

If you don't have speculaas or speculatius molds, tasty rolled and cut-out cookies can be prepared with this recipe. Simply roll the chilled dough out on a lightly floured surface 1/4-inch thick and cut out cookies using assorted cutters. The dough may also be used with some of the modern clay cookie molds."

3 3/4 cups all-purpose or unbleached white flour
1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, slightly softened
1 1/3 cups granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1/4 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2/3 cup finely ground blanched almonds
Flavorless vegetable oil for oiling molds
Cornstarch or flour for dusting molds

In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together flour, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, and baking soda and set aside.

Place butter and sugar in a mixing bowl and beat until well blended and smooth. Lightly beat in the eggs and grated lemon zest. Beat in about half the dry ingredients and the almonds until just incorporated. Stir in remaining dry ingredients using a large wooden spoon.

Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to 48 hours, if desired. (The dough may also be frozen for up to 2 weeks. Allow it to thaw completely in the refrigerator before using.)

WHEN READY TO BAKE:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Grease several baking sheets.

Prepare wooden (or ceramic) molds by lightly brushing vegetable oil over all interior surfaces, being sure to reach all the crevices and indentations. (A pastry or basting brush works well for this task.) Lightly sprinkle or sift cornstarch over molds, tipping them back and forth until all the crevices are coated, then inverting and tapping them against a hard surface to remove all excess cornstarch. (A thin film works best and produces more attractive cookies.) The molds must be re-dusted with cornstarch after each cookie, but do not need to be re-greased.

Working with a small portion of the dough at a time and leaving the remainder refrigerated, pull off a piece large enough to fill the mold being used. A bit at a time, press the dough into the shape to be formed. (Even if the dough seems too stiff at first, work with it; it will soften as the cookie is formed.) When the interior of the mold is completely filled, press down all over to remove any air spaces. Also press any dough protruding over the edges back inside the mold. Using a large, sharp knife, cut away excess dough so the cookie surface is flush with the back of the mold.

To remove cookie from a WOODEN mold, hold it upside down and rap it repeatedly and sharply against a hard surface until the cookie loosens. For a CERAMIC mold, rap it a little more gently against a wooden board or other slightly softer surface to avoid chipping or breaking the form. When the cookie is loose all over, tap or peel it out onto the baking sheet. If one particular section sticks, very carefully loosen it with the point of a paring knife. Space the cookies about 1 1/2-inches apart.

Place in the center of the oven and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the cookies, or until they are tinged with brown around the edges. Remove from the oven and let the cookies stand on baking sheets for several minutes.

Using a spatula, transfer the cookies to wire racks and let stand until completely cooled. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks or freeze for longer storage.

Makes 20 to 40 cookies, depending on the size of the molds used.
Source: The International Cookie Cookbook by Nancy Baggett