Recipe: Tuscany 2006 Journal Entry #13-Mario's, Vespers and Mario's

Tuscany 2006 Journal Entry #13-Mario's, Vespers and Mario's

Sunday, April 2nd

We go early this morning to Montelcino and walk and walk and walk the streets. We see streets, shops and restaurants we didn't see last time. There is a piece of lingerie in a shop window I'd like to try on, but the shop is closed due to the early hour. We'll try to get back again before we fly home. We find ourselves on a street outside the walls and it's quite a hike back up into town. At the top of the street we stop to rest, panting and an older man working with some others on some gardening chores greets us with a hearty Bon Giorno and a knowing smile.

We share a caf latte at Bar Fortezza, then wander thru the fortress, which is not where Bar Fortezza is, the wine bar in there is Enoteca Fortezza. Looks like it would be a hopping place later in the day, lots of tables, LOTS of wines, music and a chalkboard with bar food offerings listed. I'll take bar food in Italy anytime, you won't find Jalapeno Poppers or such on the menu, listed here are various kinds of bruschetta, ones with proscuitto, boar salami, pecorino, marinated eggplant .and olive oil ..

We buy a cute leather wild boar key chain for a friend who has a pot-bellied pig. The leather is slit on the sides to imitate tusks.

We go to Mario's for lunch since Christian has told us that lamb will be on the menu Sunday. While I'm in the restroom I hear DH laughing in the dining room and Christian asking if something or the other is all right. DH tells me that Christian has told him, "the lamb didn't arrive". Not sure if it was supposed to show up on its own, if so, if I were the lamb I wouldn't have shown up either! When Christian comes back to the table he is very apologetic, I tell him we saw LOTS of lambs just over the hill, what's the problem? He offers me wine instead. OK, I'm placated.

We have an amazing lunch of Ribollita, pork with Gorgonzola sauce, pici and boar sauce and insalata mista.

We enjoy watching the Sunday crowd of Italians almost as much as the wonderful food. What we assume is a twenty-something granddaughter of the cook comes thru the dining room with what we assume to be a new beau in tow. Into the kitchen they go for introductions and kisses all around. Halfway thru our meal older women in twos and threes begin showing up for Sunday dinner. The place has a different feel today, probably because it's daytime and Sunday. The Italian couple and their son next to us are greeted warmly by Christian. The adults try something he brings them while their son turns up his nose at it. Christian goes thru the menu with them, the boy uninterested in everything he mentions. Then Christian says, "pasta y formaggio?" The boy nods. DH says to me ."Darn! I could have had macaroni and cheese!" When it arrives, we both think of ordering it for desert, The smell is wonderful and the bowl is overflowing with homemade pasta in a white cheese sauce. The boy eats every bit of it.

In the late afternoon we head over the hill from Montelcino to Sant'Antimo to hear the Gregorian chanted vespers where we will meet Mo, Bonnie and Steve. On the way we pass an ambulance coming down the hill from Montelcino. That would be quite the ambulance ride, down those twisty roads.

We stop at the bookstore across the road from Sant'Antimo. We buy a small white stone angel for our friend who is dog-sitting for us and a couple of necklaces for other friends.

The Abbey at Sant'Antimo, a Romanesque church, dates from the 12th century. I find it very austere in a beautiful way. Just a plain stone church, but very, very gorgeous. And cold. I'm very glad I brought my pea coat. DH goes back to the car for his and I wander the church marveling at the carved pieces and the arches high overhead. Such a difference from the busy decoration of the Duomo in Siena. Both beautiful in their own way. I hear DH's and Mo's voices outside. Steve and Bonnie are there too. I go out and stand with them in the sun, waiting for the monks to arrive for vespers. When it's time to go inside again I am surprised that very few people are there.

The service is very moving. Six monks file in wearing white hooded cloaks. Their chanted prayers echo thru the church sending chills up our spines. It's so very peaceful here. We just look at each other when it's over, all of us in awe.

We decide to go to Pane Vino together for dinner but find it closed, so we go to Mario's, (where Christian tells us the lamb still hasn't, "shown up". We are seated upstairs for the very first time, we've seen people going upstairs and watched the wait staff carry glasses, utensils and food up, but have never been up there ourselves. We have a great time with Mo, Bonnie & Steve, who have become friends in a restaurant that has become a second home. Our table enjoys Ribollita (again, and why not?), pici with a plain ragu, ravioli with oil, garlic and hot peppers, insalata mista, pork with Gorgonzola, ravioli with sausage and cream & a stewed boar that is reminiscent of slow braised short ribs. The next table orders the Florentine Beefsteak and we all salivate as Christian carries it by on its rack. He carves it at the table it smells heavenly, but, as is tradition, is served MUCH too rare for most of our party. Christian says it is not even warm in the center traditionally and we decide we are happy with our choices.

DH and Mo share a caramel kind of panna cotta and I have chocolate tartufo with a rum center for desert. It's amazing the blood work when we got home was very good, what with all this eating, eating, eating! And tomorrow is the Banfi Wine Tasting luncheon. Yikes!